By Jennifer Hermitage 

Our latest trends kit is formulated around the theme of sustainable beauty and features co-products or upcycled materials, ingredients that add long-wear properties to formulas, as well as multi-use formats. All eight products, which span across skincare, toiletries and colour cosmetics, have been formulated to limit the use of precious resources and reduce overall wastage.

The upcycling process of transforming co-products, waste materials, or unwanted products into new ones is now gaining significant momentum in the beauty industry. Upcycled, circular and zero-waste are becoming major themes within sustainability initiatives which promote regenerative practices to protect the planet and reduce overall waste.

Beauty brands are being challenged to address waste and find imaginative ways to create sustainable, added-value solutions. By-products and/or co-products from the food industry lend themselves especially well to cosmetic formulations. Many waste ingredients – from coffee grounds and spent rose petals to leftover pumpkin seeds – bring unexpected benefits to the formulation, and beauty companies are enthusiastically looking to waste materials to see what treasures can be found amongst the trash.

Tint & Protect Moisturiser provides illuminating coverage combined with superior moisturisation, plus UV and DNA protection. It contains SILAB’s HELIOXINE® an eco-friendly co-product from sunflower seedcake, which creates a photoprotection shield on the skin, quenching photo-induced free radicals to prevent UV damage. Coverage is provided by Hydrosperse® Iron Oxides from silane chemistry experts Gelest. Their clever surface modification – an anionic, hydrophilic reacted coating –  provides instant dispersion in aqueous media without the need for high shear agitation, thus reducing the energy levels usually required.

Multi-Moisture Wash is a multi-purpose sulfate-free wash, designed to reduce the consumers need to purchase multiple toiletries. It is suitable for cleansing all hair and skin types – it is even mild enough for babies – and has moisturisation benefits. Its primary surfactant is Ritafactant 138 AN, an Ecocert approved mild, natural acyl lactylate with superior cleansing and foaming attributes. Moisturising emulsifier Pationic ISL has the dual abilities to be able to hold moisture in the skin and to bind to damaged hair, with mending and smoothing results. Both of these materials are available from Rita Corp. Natural APG PO 65 is a very mild, non-ionic surfactant derived from alm. It has a lipid layer enhancing effect, helping repair the barrier function to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). For additional care of the barrier function SILAB’s ADANDRINE® has been added. This eco-designed active, a co-product from pomegranate peel, quickly regulates skin barrier function.

Dippy Lippy comprises a colour-free nourishing lipstick balm and a selection of colours in which to dip the stick! This allows the wearer to get very creative with their lipstick look. Use two or more colours to create an ombre effect, layer matte and sparkle or simply use one at a time, safe in the knowledge that you have reduced wastage by just using one lipstick. The stick is based on just two raw materials – beeswax and a ready-made lip-balm base which is easy to melt and pour, both available from our partner Strahl & Pitsch. The colours selected are of a plum palette – the highest trending shade this year – in a variety of finishes from satin to sparkly.

3-In-1 Multi-Tasking Free-Styler Cream is a minimalist formula with outstanding hair-care benefits. It is suitable for use on multiple hair textures, for a variety of uses. It offers superior combability, conditioning, moisturisation, protection and shine. Formulated with the trend of the minimalist INCI list in mind, the formula effortlessly ticks the multi-purpose box as well. The gel-créme can be used liberally as a mask or sparingly as a styler to either scrunch curls or smooth a blow-dry. The emulsion is based on Flocare™ PSD 1037 LV by SNF which creates high viscosities at low levels. The multifunctional conditioning agent is cold processable and self-emulsifies with a range of oils. It has outstanding conditioning and combability results on straight and textured hair plus colour enhancing and retaining benefits. AMANDULINE® SG from SILAB is an eco-friendly co-product from sweet almonds. It coats hair to increase shine, volume and managability whilst protecting against external aggressors. Upcycled Sweet Almond Oil from Olvea has been included for its regenerating, restructuring and moisturising properties. Historically this oil is used in Ancient Chinese, Ayurvedic and Greco-Persian schools of medicine to treat dryness.

Juicy Fruit Tanning Butter provides instant colour whilst enhancing the skins’ ability to tan naturally. It contains Sebum Resistant Iron Oxides from Gelest, their special coating aids skin adhesion, and is sweat resistant for improved wear time. A trio of upcycled fruit materials provide functional benefits. Avocado Oil penetrates skin easily and leaves a protective layer to soften skin and improve elasticity. BIOTANNING®, an active derived from sweet orange peel stimulates the synthesis of melanin and ensures the photo-protection of skin cells, while squash co-product ELASTONYL® repairs elastic and collagen fibres, smoothing the microrelief to improve the appearance of stretch marks. Both of these actives are available from SILAB.

Mix & Match Multi-Use Oil is light, lubricious and sinks quickly into the skin to impart a subtle sheen. Its hero ingredient is upcycled and COSMOS approved Apricot Oil from Olvea. With its high levels of linoleic acid, it has an important role in the structure of cell membranes; additionally, it reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by restoring the hydrolipidic film. Ercarel CAP-V from Erca is a light, fast absorbing ester that blends effortlessly with the natural oil – it aids rapidity of absorption and lightens skin feel. The oil can be used alone or blended with one or more of the accompanying effect pigments in the set. Each of these pearl pigments has been chosen to compliment an array of skin tones and are especially suited to add extra glow to summer skin. Mixed with the multi-purpose oil they add bronze, glow or highlights to collarbones, shoulders and cheekbones.

Hydra-Boost Radiance Serum illuminates the complexion whilst preserving skin integrity and boosting hydration, with the new active APIOSKIN® from our partner SILAB, giving outstanding immediate and long-term hydrating benefits, skin plumping and radiance-boosting effects. The emulsion is based on Jeesperse™ Optiderm, a 100% naturally derived, instant emulsion base from Jeen International Corp.. It has added ceramides, essential lipids, and phytosterols to help replenish the barrier function whilst moisturising, conditioning and softening skin. Upcycled grapeseed oil from Olvea boosts skin care credentials – the lightweight oil penetrates easily, preserving skin integrity and helping it to become soft and supple. This 100% natural, COSMOS approved material is upcycled from seeds left over from the wine industry and is produced via a green manufacturing process. Eco-friendly, co-product SENSORALINE® by SILAB is derived from coconut flour, it revives complexion radiance and helps establish a robust, effective barrier function for hydrated skin. The serum has been developed in three separate radiance shades for different complexion requirements: Flamenco® Summit Gold 230Z brightens complexions and reduces minor redness, Flamenco® Summit Red 430Z imparts a healthy pink glow and Gemtone® Radiant Nude adds a subtle golden glow. These special effects pigments are all by Colors & Effects.

Jelly Berry Blush is long-lasting and can double as a lip tint. The formulation is boosted by two longevity-enhancing raw materials: Pecosil® SH-25L forms a covalent bond at the pigment surface to a create siliconic coating, improving colour adherence for a longer wear time; Pecogel® S-1120/A is a cosmetic polymer with superior hold qualities, providing extra durability, both available from Phoenix Chemicals. The jelly texture is created using Flocare™ PSD 1027 LV from SNF, which is cold processable and builds high viscosity at low inclusion levels. The on-trend berry shade has been created using two tech-savvy effect pigments from Colors & Effects: Chione® Electric Sunset SK90D is a vegan-friendly, brilliantly bright red with a metallic pink flip; Duocrome® RB 624C is a colour flip pigment, switches from red to blue in the light. The formulation has been boosted with a skin remodelling active – VOLUNAGE®, derived from Peony root extract, it is an eco-friendly co-product from SILAB that helps skin to recover density and elasticity, remodelling facial contours to restore a youthful oval shape.