Skin health has become key to coping with the current environment – urban aggressors, excessive hygiene, and everyday mask-wearing exacerbate skin complications such as sensitivity, redness, irritation, and dryness. Covid-19 induced extreme hygiene habits have necessitated the need for gentle solutions that reinforce the natural skin barrier.
Sensitive skin has become a significant driver for innovation, and many new products are themed around skin health and gentleness. There have been some impressive new launches in recent months.
At Cornelius Group, our customers rely on us to anticipate consumer trends across the globe, helping to turn new product development into the next generation of consumer-wowing cosmetics and personal care products.
So, what trends do formulators need to keep on the radar as we move through the winter and into 2021?
Far East Formulations
Some popular existing sensitive skin products have had their formulations enhanced to make them even more effective at targeting these concerns. For example, the popular Korean product Primera Repair Bean Cica Essence, formulated with soybean and tiger grass, is now even more concentrated to improve damaged skin and enhance the skin’s ability to adapt.
BePlain Cica Ampoule is a serum that contains over 84% Centella Asiatica Extract to provide relief and help heal damaged skin.
Japan’s number one sensitive skincare brand Curél has launched Nuxe Deep Moisture Spray suitable for face and body and is hypoallergenic and rich in ceramides. According to a survey, 50% of Japanese consumers perceive themselves to have sensitive skin.
Natural French indie brand L’Accent Dermo-Maquillage’s new make-up line is ideal for sensitive skin. The range contains chestnut powder obtained from hand-picked chestnuts, which are ground to a super-fine, tinted, moisturising powder, naturally enriched with antioxidants and polyphenols. The collection is moisturising and provides SPF15 UV protection.
Dr Jart+ Cryo Rubber™ Masks offers ‘at home cryotherapy’ with freezing masks, plus hyaluronic acid and an ampoule of the prebiotic complex to strengthen the skin barrier.
In line with the focus on skin health, there is a growing realisation of the importance of balancing skin pH. Asia is leading the way with products like TOUN 28’s pH Balancing Toner, designed to maintain pH balance after cleansing and protect the skin from external irritation.
Cornelius can help: Rich in oligopeptides purified from soybeans, Ridulisse C® restructures and densifies the dermis, limiting the ageing process. It is ideal for anti-ageing skincare treatments, that improve elasticity and provide an anti-wrinkle effect.
Recoverine® is an eco-designed active obtained from chestnuts harvested from near Silab’s Saint-Viance site. It ensures epidermal cohesion and repairing action on the barrier function, making it ideal for dry and compromised skin.
Cornelius supply several sodium hyaluronate grades in different molecular weights to provide differing levels of moisturisation to the skin. Mini HA’s ultra-low molecular weight allows it to absorb deep into the skin where it provides hydration and plumping for an anti-ageing, repairing effect. The high molecular weight grade is film-forming, moisturising the skin surface and preventing TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss).
The Power of Probiotics
Microbiome beauty is tied together with skin health and demand within this sector is predicted to grow. The body has different microbiomes – communities and collections of bacteria that our bodies need.
Sanitisers and anti-bacterial products kill the ‘good’ and the ‘bad’ bacteria that live on our skin, making microbiome enhancing materials increasingly essential to build up natural defences. Cosmetic Design Europe recently hosted a webinar dedicated to the topic at which experts in the area presented data and insights.
Ewa Hudson of Lumina Intelligence discussed new data on consumer interest and engagement with probiotic cosmetics, highlighting the product claims being made in this growing market and some new products. L’Oréal expert Audrey Gueniche PhD spoke about skin biology and discussed whether there are further exciting spaces to consider within the microbiome category.
Probiotic cosmetics can undoubtedly be found across the skincare spectrum. Options are available for every step of your routine with products such as Elizabeth Arden Superstart Probiotic Whip to Clay Cleanser, Gallinée Probiotic Hydrating Face Cream, ESPA Tri-Active Advanced ProBiome Eye Cream, Aurelia Probiotic Skincare Revitalise & Glow Serum and The Ordinary “Buffet” + Copper Peptides 1%. All enriched with a complex of youth-boosting peptides and probiotics, in addition to hydrating Hyaluronic Acid.
Cornelius can help: Ecobiotys® specifically rebalances the microbiota of mature skin by reinforcing the skin’s immune and mechanical barriers and acting on the distribution of bacterial communities, improving the skin barrier’s quality enhances the complexion. The active is obtained from yeast isolated from the porcelain flower.
Probiotic active Lactobiotyl® restores dry skin by improving the skin barrier’s integrity. It activates epidermal renewal while preserving the equilibrium of the cutaneous microbiota, restoring hydration and luminosity.
By popular demand, the Organic Pharmacy has created a Covid Care Package. The care package features two dietary supplements – Immune Boost Day and Immune Boost Night, Antioxidant Hand Wash and Aloe Disinfecting Hand Spray. The nutritional supplements have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-viral, energy and immunity-boosting properties.
Aloe Disinfecting Hand Spray is a natural, organic antibacterial and antiseptic which features 70% organic origin alcohol plus Lavender and Tea Tree oils. It additionally contains Aloe Vera and Glycerine to provide soothing and moisturising benefits.
Antioxidant Hand & Body Wash is a gentle non-foaming cleanser designed to purify and balance and is infused with antioxidant-rich herbs and vitamins including hydrating aloe, calendula and softening sweet orange oil. This sweet-scented antioxidant wash rinses clean without residue and drying or irritating, even sensitive skin. The carefully formulated organic ingredients work in synergy to effectively refresh and revitalise the skin without disrupting its natural oils or stripping it of moisture.
Cornelius can help: Our collection of mild surfactants that are ideal for sensitive skin. One even has a lipid layer enhancing effect to help rebuild the skins natural resistance to external aggressors.
New Products & Innovations
Baylis & Harding have launched a child-friendly hand wash to encourage even the ‘trickiest little soap dodger’ to wash their hands properly. The product features a motion sensor pump that plays the ‘Happy Birthday’ tune twice, thus helping children tackle the Covid-19 virus by washing their hands for 20 seconds. Each soap is fragranced with a sweet bubble gum perfume and comes in two pack versions, each featuring an under-water character – choose from a blue shark or a pink striped fish.
Harrods has opened its first ‘H Beauty’ specialist store in Essex, with a further store planned for Milton Keynes. The platform offers the consumer a ‘new beauty experience’ with offerings from 90 brands across make-up, skincare and fragrance, master classes, treatment zones and a champagne bar. With the new venture, Harrods hopes to attract a wider audience from all income groups.
Some premium brands have launched exciting colour cosmetics in the last few months. These include Christian Louboutin’s Matte Fluid Lip Colour, which delivers full coverage and a matte finish in a large selection of shades, housed in an opulent tube that looks somewhat like a fancy Christmas bauble. Beauty Pie has also launched a collection of matte shades for lips; Matte Future Lipstick is described as a modern matte that delivers a light feel, luxurious pigment, hydration, regeneration and antioxidants.
There are some excellent new eyeshadow launches: Charlotte Tilbury Colour-Coded Luxury Palettes contain a quartet of intense smooth eyeshadows in harmonising shades; Oriflame’s new product provides longevity – The One Colour Unlimited Eye Shadow is a long-lasting, water-resistant shadow stick that comes in a variety of colours; Morphe 2 Jelly Eye Shimmers have a unique bouncy formula that allows for buildable coverage, whilst the shimmery finishes dry quickly to provide sparkle that doesn’t budge.
Cornelius can help: Colors & Effects has launched some stunning new pearl pigments this year to create on-trend colour cosmetics. Their colour of the moment is Chione™ Electric Sunset which reflects the Cranberry Harvest trend. This pearl has a bold blue-red metallic-like finish which is based on synthetic mica. With this, they have created two beautiful colour cosmetic creations which fit right in with the trends of the moment – Lip Balm in Cranberry Glow and Glam Stick for eyes in Festive Cranberry. Other new launches include Chione™ Astral White, a sparkling interference white based on synthetic mica, and Chione™ Galactic Gold, a metallic sparkling gold based on synthetic mica. To find the perfect shade check out – https://www.colors-effects.com/products/search/?i=cosmetics
Winner of Pure Beauty’s 2020 award for best new hand and nail product is Dr Pawpaw Age Renewal Hand Cream Trio. Each variant contains the brand’s signature blend of nourishing papaya, soothing aloe vera and moisturising olive oil plus colloidal oatmeal, shea butter and cocoa butter for extra nourishment and moisture. Choose from a fragrance-free formula, orange and mango perfume, or cocoa and coconut scent.
Bemoral’s Narcissus Nude Mask provides a pre-makeup boost for the skin. It contains potassium-rich trehalose that helps water enter the skin cells to maintain osmotic balance. The mask is recommended for normal, dry and combination skin. The individual mask sachets also contain a glitter powder for radiance and a touch of luxury. Skin is left soft, glossy and moisturised – the perfect canvas for make-up.
‘Clean’, halal-certified, vegan-friendly and cruelty-free beauty brand Shade M Beauty recently launched Muse Matte Liquid Lipstick. Available in 15 shades, each with the mantra “I am my own shade”, the lip paints encourage women of all shapes, sizes, ages and ethnicities to be proud of who they are and express themselves through a combination of beauty and art.
Home Spa Treatments
Luxury body care has been the mainstay of the prestige skincare sector during 2020. With spas closed, many premium body care products, from big names and indie brands alike, have hit the shelves. Market researcher NPD Group say that women’s body care has been the best performing area within premium skincare this year.
Origins Sensational Souffles Body Souffle Trio is a pampering set designed to smooth, soften and hydrate. The set comprises Smoothing Soufflé Whipped Body Cream, Gloomaway™ Grapefruit Body Soufflé and Ginger Soufflé Whipped Body Cream. Each has its own distinct fragrance and is infused with a nourishing blend of oils, including olive, grape seed, rice bran and apricot kernel. Suitable for all skin types the souffle is free from animal products except cruelty-free honey and beeswax.
Neom has packed three calming products together to create a Calm Vibes gift collection. The relaxing set – which comprises bath/shower oil, hand balm and pulse point relief spritz – all contain a blend of essential oils, including lavender, jasmine and Brazilian rosewood, to help induce calm and banish stress.
Jo Malone’s Pomegranate Noir Bath Oil is enriched with sweet almond, jojoba seed and avocado oils, natural conditioners that soothe and hydrate the skin. Pomegranate Noir’s scent, a blend of pomegranate, Casablanca lily and guaiac wood, is intense and indulgent, adding to the luxury experience.
Acqua Di Parma Blu Mediterranean Mirto Di Panarea Body Lotion is enriched with almond olive and grape seed oils to create fast absorbing, hydrating lotion.
Molton Brown Flora Luminaire Glowing Body Oil is enriched with sesame, grape, argan and coconut oils to help skin retain its moisture levels.
Cornelius can help: We have a wide selection of waxes and butters available from Strahl & Pitsch. As well as beeswax, which is renowned for its barrier forming, protective properties we have its vegan alternative, Laurel wax. There are many other waxes in the range including:
- Rice Bran Wax which is a superior oil binder with stabilising properties,
- Candelilla Wax with its moderate melting range, good gloss and durable film, is valued in a variety of industries,
- Tea Wax is a solid composed of esters, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, phospholipids and polyphenols. It has a dark green colour and can be used as an effective natural colourant for cosmetic products.
We have a great selection of natural oils from Olvea, an ethical and sustainable company based in France. Their TrueShea™ is sourced direct from farmers in Burkina Faso and processed at their eco-refining facilities in Normandy, France – making honest and pure shea butter. The company has a comprehensive portfolio of natural oils including Argan, Jojoba and Olive.
Caring for Our Hands
Hand creams have become a staple product for many this year as our hands are much drier than usual due to increased washing and sanitisers, both of which strip and dry the skin. We have seen launches from high-end brands like Byredo who have launched a trio of limited-edition hand creams. Each of the three hand creams – Blanche, La Tulipe and Rose of No Man’s Land – features a complex signature scent whilst the cream formula hydrates and softens.
Cornelius can help: Actives can be enormously beneficial in boosting the efficacy of targeted hand care solutions. Ad-Resyl® is a purified natural active developed to prevent atopic dermatitis’s clinical signs and prolong periods of remission following corticosteroid therapy. It strengthens the skins barrier function, improves hydration, inhibits inflammatory response, and restores cutaneous microbiota equilibrium. It has proven clinical efficacy for children and adults.
Glyco-Repair® regenerates natural tissue repair processes. It accelerates damaged skin recovery and boosts matrix remodelling, encouraging central function recovery.
To find out how the Cornelius personal care experts can support your product development needs, please visit www.cornelius.co.uk or call +44 (0) 1279 714 300.