By Jennifer Hermitage

Welcome to the Spring 2024 edition of Jen’s Trends. In this report we explore the following topics that have been piquing our interest recently at Cornelius:

  • Evolving Deodorant Market:
    • Innovations in malodour prevention
    • Enhancements in armpit health
  • Increasing Skin Problems Among Children:
    • Causes behind the trend
    • Impact on the growing tween market
  • Dermatological and Post-Treatment Cosmetics:
    • Overview of the broader trend towards specialised skincare
  • Exosomes in Cosmetics:
    • Exploration of their role in shaping the future of the cosmetics industry

Evolving Deodorant Market

The deodorant sector has been undergoing some interesting innovation recently. For the past couple of years interest in natural deodorants has been growing amongst consumers who have concerns about traditional aluminium based antiperspirants. Many brands have launched natural deodorants which tend to follow the same format – sticks containing high levels of starch, these absorb the sweat and are blended with oils such as coconut that work as a binder (and in the case of coconut also have antibacterial properties) plus essential oils with antibacterial properties to help prevent bacteria from degrading sweat, and thus causing malodours. However, many consumers find this type of product ineffective and in frustration return to traditional antiperspirants.

This was until the brand Fussy launched their Natural Deodorant– a stick deo with a difference. As well as the usual ingredients found in this format it contains probiotic Lactobacillus, this works by replenishing good bacteria so that the ecosystem of the armpit is rebalanced and odour-causing bacteria is diminished.

Cornelius can help: SILAB’s LACTOBIOTYL® is obtained via bioguided fermentation of probiotic Lactobacillus arizonensis. It improves the integrity of the skin barrier by boosting the production of markers of cohesion and of protein and lipid structures. It activates epidermal renewal while preserving the equilibrium of the cutaneous microbiota.

This year has also seen whole-body deodorants beginning to gain traction within the personal care sector. Most of us apply under-arm deo daily but until now specifically designed whole-body deodorants have not been an option – users have simply spritzed their usual antiperspirants in areas other than the armpit. Now several products designed for multi-area use, such as feet and the groin area, are available. They are designed to prevent odour but some can also reduce sweat, although effectiveness varies between individuals. It is unwise to apply too much product with some experts advising that it could be unsafe if used all over the body at the same time. Cosmetic dermatologist Michele Green, MD explains:  “Sweat is a normal body secretion used to cool the body when body temperature increases, and if sweat production is over-inhibited with deodorant usage, the body can potentially overheat.”

Native have launched Whole Body Deodorant which is available in stick and spray format. Designed to deliver clinically proven, 72-hour odour protection for pits, privates and more, the products are free from aluminium salts and baking soda.

Dove is taking note of these trends, launching two new deodorant products in February 2024. Women’s Dove VitaminCare + Deodorant is fortified with Vitamin B3 to enhance skin’s natural odour defences in a “revolutionary aluminum-free formula” that delivers 72-hour odour control while nourishing underarm skin 10 layers deep.

In the men’s category, the Dove Men+Care Whole Body Deo range includes a stick, spray and cream in a variety of scents. Based on proprietary odour prevention technology that targets the source of body odour, the formulation is free-from aluminium whilst including vitamin E. According to Dove, only 2% of consumers are currently using whole body deodorant, but 76% of men want to try a product like this.

Cornelius can help: We supply Argile Du Velay’s Green Clay which has a three layered structure with unique absorption and adsorption capabilities. This makes it effective for odour neutralisation and sweat absorption. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory, healing and regenerating properties – useful to those who shave their armpits.

Our wide portfolio of essential oils features some with anti-bacterial properties including tea tree, eucalyptus, and lavender.

Related to this trend is armpit health and cleanliness. Indie brand Oxters have created Original In-Shower Underarm Wash, designed to support underarm health instead of fight against nature, it eliminates odour-causing bacteria and sweat while cleaning and conditioning underarm skin. Knowing that underarms are designed to cool the body and remove toxins they are against clogging this area with antiperspirants, believing that this kicks them into overdrive, making body odour even worse. Natural ingredients include activated charcoal, coconut oil, shea butter and apple cider vinegar and two versions are available: Charcoal Smooth and Charcoal Grit, with added exfoliation.

Cornelius can help: Our Activated Charcoal is derived from Sri Lankan coconut shell and has been steam treated to activate its detoxifying, soothing, and anti-inflammatory properties. It absorbs sweat and odour, deep cleans, and controls oil secretions.

Exosomes

Exosomes are the latest buzz word in personal care. They are released by all living cells and prompt the body’s natural healing process. Exosomes mediate specific cell-to-cell communication; they contain diverse bioactive molecules, including nucleic acids, proteins, lipids, and metabolites. Within the realms of the dermatology space exosomes can be used in relation to skin regeneration and repair, wound healing and inflammatory skin diseases. In terms of medical aesthetics, they can be used for scar removal, skin rejuvenation, pigmentation regulation, and hair loss.

When used as a skincare treatment, exosomes are extracted from human stem cells and frozen in order to keep them as stable as possible. However, unlike actual stem cells, exosomes don’t have a nucleus, just mRNA, meaning there is no possibility of an adverse graft-versus-host reaction.

Exosome therapy is used after treatments, such as PRP Vampire facials and other types of microneedling, and involves the application of topical exosomes. In this instance they reduce redness, burning, and significantly improve the healing process.

Tweens

There is a growing trend for children as young as eight using skincare products designed for adults, leading to a rise of skin complaints amongst tweens and teens. Dermatologists are increasingly seeing children who have used unsuitable products and are suffering from irritated skin as a consequence.

Some parents report their children begging them to purchase expensive skincare for them after seeing these products used by their favourite influencers on TikTok and YouTube. US brands Drunk Elephant and Bubble are particular favourites with children due to the bright cartoon-style packaging. Sephora have noted that their in-store testers of these favourites are frequently ransacked by kids who have a field day, clearing shelves of products as soon as they come into stock. But many of these contain potentially harmful active ingredients intended for adults only, such as exfoliating acids and retinol, which can provoke allergies or eczema in such young skin.

Paediatric dermatologist Dr Tess McPherson, of the British Association of Dermatologists, says “For a child with eczema or sensitive skin, they could cause significant problems. And a lot of them will be highly fragrant and they could get contact allergies to some of those products.”

Consultant dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto said she was seeing the trend more frequently in her clinics. “Most have been heavily influenced by social media (TikTok in particular) and influencers who are showing their in-depth routines, most often accompanied by luxury skincare brands. There is often an unhealthy focus on anti-ageing too, despite their young age. There is also a degree of keeping up with their friends, as well as frequently chopping and changing their skincare to fix their acne when what they need is medical intervention”.

Whether people so young even need to use skincare is debatable, and varies depending on the individual, but it is certainly better that they use mild products rather than those loaded with strong ingredients. With this in mind, some brands have launched tween-specific ranges.

Rile is a new US skincare brand aimed at Gen Alpha, who turn 13 this year. The brand’s starting lineup is simple and aims to provide building blocks which can be turned into a routine when users are older. Products include cleanser, moisturiser, gender-neutral lip balm and a charcoal deodorant.

Another brand in this burgeoning category is Gryt. Their aim is to empower tweens and teens and teach them that building healthy habits at an early age will set them in good stead for the future. They have launched with three skincare options: Face Courage Daily Cleanser, the So Chill Stress Less Super-Serum and Balancing Act Daily Face Moisturizer ($18)

Both brands want to reach kids before they are too strongly influenced by false information from social media. They want dedicated tween products to exist so that kids don’t experiment with products that are far too strong for their skin.

Cornelius can help: Our portfolio contains a number of raw materials that are ideal for creating mild formulas for young beauty lovers.

The Pationic range is a collection of mild, plant-based Acyl Lactylates that are ideal for delicate young skin. They provide multifunctional benefits in shampoos, body washes, and emulsions. One of the materials, Pationic ISL, has multiple functions, including the ability to increase the water content of the stratum corneum, making it an excellent addition to moisturising washes, and the ability to bind to damaged hair, mending damaged fibres. We also have a collection of more well-known APGs such as Coco, Decyl and Lauryl Glucosides, which are also ideal for creating mild wash-off formulations.

Our range of clays from Argile Du Velay are mild and come with some impressive skincare benefits: pink restores the radiance of fragile skins and absorbs impurities; blue has an oxygenating and detoxifying action; whilst kaolin is soothing and softening.

Dermo-Cosmetics

In the wider skincare market brands are collaborating with dermatologists to help provide accurate information to consumers.

Clinique is enlisting a group of seven US-based dermatologists to play both front-facing and behind-the-scenes roles in the brand’s social media content. The aim of this new “Derm Creator Council” is to separate helpful, derm-approved advice from the misinformation and dubious trends that crowd social media platforms. They believe this approach takes direct aim at consumers’ inclination to look to social media as their first port of call when choosing their next beauty purchase. All of the selected dermatologists have massive followings on TikTok and Instagram and represent a diverse range of backgrounds and specialties.

The term Dermo-cosmetic has existed in the industry for a number of years. These products contain technical ingredients that typically target specific skin concerns and are often developed by dermatologists.

Cornelius can help: Our portfolio includes a selection of technical materials suitable for inclusion in Dermo-cosmetics. SILAB’s Softcare range offers patented active ingredients of natural origin, specifically designed to be used as part of dermo-cosmetic and dermatological care programs. The two available materials, AD-RESYL ® and ACNESIUM ®, care for atopic dermatitis and acne respectively, returning skin to its proper healthy functioning state.

‘Notox’ products in particular have rocketed in popularity. Last summer saw Google searches for “Notox” increase by 7600% in data analysed over a 30 day period last April – May. It is an umbrella term and refers to treatments and products that give the illusion of botox without a needle in sight.

Dr. Brandt Needles No More Wrinkle Smoothing Cream is designed to tackle forehead wrinkles, particularly No. 11 lines between the brows. It features a blend of neuropeptides, magnesium, and adenosine, which relaxes the underlying muscle — in a similar but less dramatic way than Botox. It also contains lactic and  glycolic acids to help stimulate collagen renewal, as well as glycerin and vitamin E to support barrier function and help prevent water loss.

Cornelius can help: MYOLINE®, created by SILAB, is a plant-derived topical active which has a noticeable “botox-like” effect within five days of use. Its muscle relaxant effect reduces expression lines on young and mature volunteers. Additionally, it reinforces the skin’s barrier function, providing long-lasting moisturisation and radiance. We have created our own Botox in a Bottle formulation – please contact your Cornelius representative for more information.

Also in in line with the Dermo trend is a growing demand for products which help the skin recover after cosmetic procedures that have caused redness and irritation.

Medik8 Ultimate Recovery is an intensive restorative cream developed to support healing and downtime associated with aesthetic treatments. It stimulates collagen synthesis and enhances levels of oxygen in the skin with the aid of Perfluorodecalin. It also contains natural flower extract Arnica to help reduce redness, irritation and discomfort. The skins barrier function is improved, helping the skin retain moisture and dramatically improving its appearance.

SkinCeuticals Phyto Corrective Gel is a light oil-free gel containing botanical extracts such as cucumber and thyme which work to soothe and calm irritated skin, providing instant relief. These anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties make it ideal for sensitive and irritated skin. The appearance of discolouration and an uneven skin tone are improved with the aid of plant glucosides. It also works as an effective oil-free hydrator for acneic skin.

Cornelius can help: our partner SILAB have active ingredients that help soothe irritated and sensitized skin.

NEUROFENSE® is an overall soothing active that is derived from the roots of red sage, a Chinese medicinal plant that is highly resistant to the cold. It restores comfort and protection to sensitive skin, in particular when it’s been exposed to the cold or pollution.

NUTRIPEPTIDES® is a natural ingredient rich in di-peptides and tri-peptides of rice. More than a hair repairing and volumizing solution, it can also cares for the scalp, with moisturizing, soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.


To conclude, technical raw materials are vital for many of the dominant trends we see in today’s marketplace. Increasingly savvy consumers are interested in how raw materials work and the marketing of new products, explaining how clever ingredients interact with the skin, is vital in enticing consumers in today’s very competitive market. Due to the bombardment of the latest launches on social feeds, consumers are always keen to try the latest innovations. The downside of this is sensory overload and an increase in skin sensitivity due to product overload. This creates a very real space for dermatologists to share their expertise, guiding consumers to make wise decisions concerning their skincare habits and future purchases.

Reach out to us at sales.enquiries@cornelius.co.uk for any and all of your needs. Stay informed, and stay ahead with Cornelius – where innovation meets expertise.