JENS TRENDS – SPRING 2020

Blog

Social media site Pinterest has revealed its top 100 list of trends for 2020 based on the most searched for terms. More than 320 million people around the world use Pinterest every month and the site’s annual trend list is compiled from its data of global search volumes, identifying the top 100 topics with significant search volumes and consistent upward growth. During 2020 it looks like accessible wellness and space inspired make-up will make a significant impact on the beauty industry. This is the year we will see wellness become more accessible for the masses, with a focus on positive habits people can adopt in their everyday lives to boost mood and wellbeing.  It is predicted that social media detox searches will surge, as indicated by a 314% increase in searches. Other wellness enhancing searches included: art therapy activities- up 444%, self-discovery journals -147% and mood booster playlists – up 85%. Some spas are ahead of the curve and have been tapping into these trends already. Retreat to Gayles in South Downs have hosted a successful social media detox weekend, and the newly opened The Harrogate Spa at the DoubleTree by Hilton Harrogate Majestic Hotel banned smartphones in the spa area. Aromatherapy favourite ylang-ylang oil – known for its restorative, calming and balancing properties– saw search interest increasing by 91%. Meanwhile, planet inspired make-up saw 217% search increase. This “outer-space daydreams” theme will see bold colours such as black, purple and blue become popular for a variety of colour cosmetics – lips as well as eyes!

Space-age make-up aligns well with Pantone’s colour of the year – Classic Blue. Each year, Pantone highlights a colour it deems to be culturally significant for the months ahead, with the colour of the year influencing product design across many key industries. After 20 years of careful choices – primarily based on pop culture trends, political and socio-economical movements – Pantone has come full circle. Back in 2000, Cerulean Blue was its colour of choice. A cooler shade to welcome in the age of technology. Now, with tech overload and the need for human reconnection, Pantone is firmly planting its roots in stability with the selection of Classic Blue. Classic Blue, Pantone 19-4052, is noted for its relative neutrality on the colour scale, but also the inherent connotations that come with it. The shade represents calmness, clarity and stability. It signifies luxury and nobility, being close in tone to the semi-precious stone Lapis Lazuli. The shade symbolises the sea for those wanting to connect to nature and also has links with the wish to embrace a newfound faith.

“Clean Colour” is set to be one of 2020’s biggest beauty trends – where bright pops of colour are paired with clean and simple skin and lips. Championed by Ricky Wilson, international make-up artist for Dior, the trend is a nice compromise for those who like adding colour but may not want to go with a full face. “I think this trend will be huge because people really love all of the beauty looks on Instagram showing colourful make-up,” he said. “This is totally doable even for a person who struggles with make-up.” Clean colour is easily personalised – hues, intensity and areas of application are decided by the wearer – it is not one prescriptive look. Neon eyeliner, rainbow eyeshadow, coloured mascara, pops of colour at the inner-outer corners of the eye – all this goes, and more. In fact, whatever you can dream up is just fine. Anastasia Beverly Hills Norvina Pro Pigment Palette Vol.3, a collection of 25 rainbow-hued powder eyeshadows, is perfect for recreating this trend.

Cornelius can help: Embrace blues – and any other hue of your choosing – with our range of sustainable and responsibly sourced Effect Pigments. We have an expansive collection of blues with satiny, sparkly and colour-flip finishes. Additionally, we have every other colour of the rainbow available too! Why not go to https://bit.ly/3apmJOE to choose your favourite? Available from us are four new shades of Bioglitter™ PURE. The Opal collection features three shades – Mint, Aqua and Rose – all available in five sizes. Meanwhile, Bioglitter™ PURE Vivid is a brand-new product branch of the PURE glitter collection. As the name suggests, it packs a bold punch of colour! Fuchsia is the first colour available and it also comes in five sizes. All PURE glitters are based on a special form of cellulose, unique to the brand, which has passed independent tests including TÜV, Austria’s ‘OK Biodegradable WATER’ Certification, which guarantees biodegradation in natural, freshwater environments. 

After nearly ten years of work, the European Commission has published its final decision to classify titanium dioxide as a category 2 carcinogen. Publication of the legislation comes after a lengthy process with several obstacles – including last-minute objections during the two-month scrutiny period. Harmonised classifications will apply from 9th September 2021. New requirements – that titanium dioxide containing products will carry cancer warnings – will only apply to mixtures in powder form that contain 1% or more of titanium dioxide with an aerodynamic diameter of 10um or less. The classification suggests that other forms and mixtures come with notes to inform users of the precautionary measures needed to minimise hazard. Although liquid and some solid, mixtures are not classified, specific warning statements and labels will need to be applied to those that contain 1% or more titanium dioxide. Many parts of the industry have disputed the ruling, arguing that the risks are based on dust hazard which is not specific to titanium dioxide. The verdict will indeed have a significant impact on an industry in which titanium dioxide is one of the most used raw materials. The Titanium Dioxide Manufacturers Association (TDMA) disagrees with the classification. They state that the material “has been used safely for over 100 years” in a broad array of beneficial products, many of which will now have to carry a hazard label despite there being no risk of inhalation to consumers. They argue that the health warning labels on products which cannot be inhaled will increase consumer perception of risk and therefore negatively affect demand.

Procter & Gamble’s Opte Skin is a hand-held printer that scans the skin with a camera that takes 200 frames per second. Then 120 thermal inkjet printers precisely apply tiny amounts of make-up to cover age spots, burst blood vessels and other blemishes, leaving the rest of your skin untouched. The company say that even the most uneven skin tone is over 90% flawless and question the need to cover all the skin when just the uneven areas can be targeted. In addition to the covering aspect, the device applies an optimising serum that fades the appearance of spots over time for a clearer, more even-looking skin tone. Cartridges for the device are available in three shades – light, medium and dark – which the makers say cater for all skin tones.

Men’s make-up brand War Paint was founded in September 2017 and launched 18 months later. Available online and at selected department stores – most recently at John Lewis London – War Paint comes in 21 SKUs, including foundation, bronzer and concealer, with a primer and make-up remover in the offing. Founder Daniel Gray says that there has been an overwhelming response. “John Lewis can’t believe their sales…It just proves the market is ready and there”. Gray turned down a Dragon’s Den deal six months ago and self-funded next stage growth. His mission was to overhaul the stigma attached to make-up for men and go mainstream with a “by men, for men” message, targeting men who had never previously worn make-up. The products have drawn interest from lots of male consumers, but so far, the biggest audience is the 50+ age bracket. Cornelius can help: Our range of Timica® Terra effect pigments are ideal for blending to match any skin tone. They have a soft sheen which looks natural on the skin. All-natural mica used in BASF effect pigments is sourced from their own wholly-owned mine in Georgia USA – processes used are entirely ethical, traceable and environmentally friendly.

Lip-gloss is set to see a revival for the start of the new decade, in part thanks to the re-runs of popular 90’s TV shows. Kat Von D Beauty has added two new products to its vegan-friendly colour line-up, and one is a lip-gloss – the first to be launched by the brand. XO Vinyl Lip Cream provides full coverage, thanks to a high pigment loading, and a vinylesque shine. Also launched is Everlasting Blush which produces a high-intensity pop colour with a matte finish. Both products are available in six shades.

Cornelius can help: Bang on trend is the latest formulation launch from our principal Phoenix Chemicals. They have created shimmering lip-gloss made with 100% vegetable derived esters that provide body, gloss and emolliency. For a copy of the formulation contact your Cornelius representative.

Fenty Beauty has launched their first-ever mascara. Full Frontal Volume, Lift & Curl features a dual-sided brush to achieve length and volume. 

Do-It-All 3-in-1 Dry Texture Spray by SGX NYC instantly refreshes and revitalises flat styles, while enhancing texture and providing a light hold that allows for movement throughout the day. Developed as the perfect balance between dry shampoo and hairspray it is designed to achieve the perfectly imperfect, undone look. It adds texture and body to flat hair, absorbs oil, provides volume – all with a light, flexible hold. The after-feel is soft and humidity resistant. The vegan-friendly formulation contains hydrolysed wheat protein for its fortifying and strengthening properties. Sea salt extract is known to help provide texture and hold, and sea kale and red seaweed extract are known as cleansers that help remove gunk without drying out hair. Cornelius can help: Luviset® 360 is a thickening and styling polymer that provides six distinct benefits in use: long-lasting hold, strong hold, low flaking, flexible hold, anti-pollution and new texture. It is suitable across a wide range of styling applications and can produce very viscous styling products. Nutrilan® Keratin LM is a vegan-friendly protein for hair care. It increases hair strength by 20% and prevents hair breakage by 50%.

Danish start-up LastSwab has launched what it says is the ‘world’s first’ reusable cotton bud in France. Since the start of 2020, plastic-stemmed cotton buds have been banned in France amid a clampdown on single-use plastic. The swabs are made from medical silicone and nylon and are washed with soap and water after use. Two versions are available – bumpy and smooth. Each is housed in a protective case and comes in eight colour options. The company say that they want LastSwab and upcoming reusable products to be part of a future where we are more thoughtful of how we spend our resources and estimate that the product will stop billions of swabs from contaminating the oceans.

New multi-tasker Clean Jelly Oil Cleanser by REN negates the need for multiple cleansers taking up space in your bathroom. The innovative formula transforms into various textures for an efficacious cleanse that leaves skin feeling comfortable, not stripped. The tri-phase formula cleanses skin three ways (in one step) with the help of three rich plant oils -sunflower seed, meadowfoam seed, and grape seed. The face wash is said to remove every scrap of make-up and even stubborn products like SPF, without stripping skin or leaving it dry and tight. To use the product, start with a dry face and apply a small amount of cleanser, massage into skin to create a silky oil that’ll begin melting your make-up, then add warm water. In essence, this will emulsify the cleanser, turning it into a creamy milk that effortlessly rinses away, taking dirt with it. Skin is left soft thanks to natural hydrating oils. Jelly Cleanser boasts a 100% naturally derived vegan ingredient list plus sustainable, recycled plastic packaging.

Cornelius can help: Coming soon as part of our exciting new kit is Transformative Milk Cleanser which changes from oil to milk with the addition of water.

Ultraplant is a new vegan-friendly cleanser from Lush and is described by the brand as its “most luxurious, cold cream facial cleanser yet”. The product contains just six raw materials which are in keeping with the sustained trend for short ingredient listings. Peruvian jojoba oil, orange blossom water, glycerin, sunflower wax, agave nectar and candelilla wax combine to make the cleansing cream – each is ethically and sustainably sourced. Cornelius can help: We supply an extensive portfolio of natural, sustainably sourced oils from Olvea, including jojoba. The oils are refined at their eco-refinery in France which has been designed to have the lowest possible environmental impact and guarantees that no cross-contamination occurs. The plant has 93 tanks, 10,000 tons of storage and 30,000 tons of annual refining capacity. We supply Candelilla Wax from Strahl & Pitsch, the world’s largest refiner of the crude wax, which is sourced through established and reliable suppliers collected from sustainable sources.

Online retailer Cult Beauty has created a new webpage dedicated to indie skincare brands, reflecting growing consumer interest in this type of label. The new Skindie section offers products from lesser-known beauty brands including Decree, Odacite, Skin Design and Verso which will be on offer alongside favourites such as Charlotte Tilbury, Huda Beauty, The Ordinary and Drunk Elephant.

Cult beauty favourite Drunk Elephant has been revealed as the brand with the fastest social media growing audience. Their latest launch is F-Balm Electrolyte Waterfacial, an overnight mask designed to cool and hydrate the skin. Said to be especially beneficial to dehydrated or hungover skin when used as part of an evening skincare ritual. The product contains an impressive line-up of functional raw materials. This includes plant squalane, sodium PCA, niacinamide, five forms of ceramide, omega fatty acids and vitamin F. All of these combine to restore the balance of hydration and prevent against further water loss. 

Cornelius can help. We have several actives designed to increase levels of moisturisation in the skin and to prevent TEWL (transepidermal water loss). Obtained from the chestnut, Recoverine® is an eco-designed active that stimulates epidermal homeostasis, ensuring a functional, effective cutaneous barrier. It controls equilibrium in the stratum corneum, and repairs barrier function, making it the ideal active for dry skin. Indufence® acts on both mechanical and immune biological barrier. It has a dual-action, increasing the cohesion of the upper layers of the epidermis and stimulating the immunity receptor and thus the production of anti-microbial peptides. It improves hydration and overall skin quality. Organic active Structurine® Bio is obtained from sweet white lupine, rich in low molecular weight glutaminated peptides and oligosaccharides. It favours the synthesis of epidermal proteins and lipids, limits the transepidermal water loss and reinforces the barrier function of the skin. It is recommended for all repairing, regenerating and hydrating skincare 

Higher Education Skincare is a new skincare brand based on the belief that effective products ensure the health of skin today and for years to come. A simple, step-by-step approach that “teaches your skin” to look and feel its best. Packed with powerful ingredients, like retinol and antioxidants, the products are dermatologist approved and scientifically formulated to tame, treat and protect for clear, vibrant skin. The brand says “Our revolutionary products will literally transform your skin in four weeks or less. We are so confident in our clean and science-heavy formulations that we’ll give you your money back if you don’t see results.”  An example of the new range is Cram Session – Vitamin Infused Hydrating Lotion, which contains fractionated melanin to protect skin from damaging blue light rays that are emitted from electronic devices, the sun, and other sources. The lightweight, hydrating lotion contains a daily dose of vitamins A, C and E, that protect skin by limiting the production of free radicals which can cause cell degradation over time. Additionally, plant extracts and peptides help restore skin hydration and resilience. 

Cornelius can help. Oxygeskin®, a nasturtium flower derived active, from Silab reinvigorates skin oxygenation and restores its adaptive capacity to overcome stress caused by blue light, thus improving radiance and smoothness. Vitamin C is an excellent addition to skincare, but it is an unstable molecule that oxidises upon exposure to air, light, and heat, negating its benefits. Silab’s Ridulisse C®, derived from soy proteins, has a vitamin C-like action that is anti-ageing and re-densifies the dermal structure. It is a part of a collection of Silab actives that have vitamin like efficacy without the inherent instability issues. Vitanol/Vitanol® Bio (organic) has vitamin A like efficacy and is suitable to use in daytime moisturisers, being photo-stable. Vederine® has a restructuring effect like vitamin D and Desoxine® Bio is an antioxidant in the manner of vitamin E. For a full presentation on these vitamin-like actives, please ask your Cornelius rep. 

Neutrogena has launched a new turmeric-infused skincare line – Clear & Soothe – which calms and balances spot-prone skin. Turmeric is renowned for its soothing properties, and the line-up includes a light-weight moisturiser for skin inclined to break-outs and a Mousse Cleanser to thoroughly remove oil and dirt. Jelly Micellar Makeup Remover which works even on waterproof mascara and Toning Mist, a refreshing tonic for the skin are also included. Cornelius can help: Mediacalm® is a soothing active for sensitive skin which reduces inflammation. Thanks to its calming properties, Mediacalm®® soothes skin after single or repeated stresses and restores the average skin sensitivity threshold. 

Plant-based skincare brand Naya has launched a new Overnight Hydration Mask which contains four types of hyaluronic acid to target the multiple layers of the skin. The mask nourishes as well as hydrates the skin. It includes materials like snow fungus, aloe vera cacay oil and phytic acid to deliver fatty acids and vitamins to the epidermis.

Cornelius can help. We supply several grades of sodium hyaluronate in different molecular weights to provide differing levels of moisturisation to the skin. Mini HA’s ultra-low molecular weight allows it to absorb deep into the skin where it provides hydration and plumping for an anti-ageing, repairing effect. The high molecular weight grade is film-forming, moisturising the skin surface and preventing TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss).

Stretch Mark Control, an iconic product by Clarins, has been reformulated with a new blend of plant-based materials. Now called Body Partner, the formula contains Phyto Stretch Complex – a combination of organic green banana and asiaticoside to increase the synthesis of type I and V collagen and encourage the synthesis of fibrillin-1. 

Cornelius can help: Elastonyl®, derived from pumpkin seed, protects and repairs elastin and collagenic fibres. It smooths the microrelief and improves skin tone, making it ideal for including in body products designed to reduce stretch marks. 

Any questions? Get in touch today!