The subject for this Winter 2025, Jen’s trends blog is the issue of compromised skin and its many and varied causations. We look at the differences between fragile, sensitive and sensitised skin; the cross-over between eczema, dermatitis and dandruff; how a compromised immune system is responsible for some common skin conditions; how UV and pollution exacerbate many skin problems; and many more inter-related issues.
Fragile Skin
Fragile skin may occur because it is inherently sensitive or because it has become sensitised. It is defined as skin with a lower resistance to irritants, environmental factors, and external aggressors. With this increased sensitivity and vulnerability, the condition is characterised by compromised structural integrity and a diminished resistance to external shear forces. “Fragile skin” refers to pathologically altered skin that blisters and breaks easily upon mild friction, pressure or trauma. The breakage can occur in different skin layers, within the epidermis, along the dermal–epidermal junction, or in the upper dermis1.
Furthermore, it has a compromised lipid barrier which fails to effectively hold in water or keep environmental pollutants and microbes out. This is linked with feelings of tightness and dryness, which often results in a flaky appearance and in extreme cases skin may crack.
Fragile skin is thin and may have a translucent appearance. It is prone to react to stimuli and has a tendency toward tightness, redness, itching, and feelings of discomfort which may be caused by over-reactive capillaries. This characteristic may be confused with Rosacea. Reactions to products can lead to rash-like bumps or breakouts which could be confused with acne breakouts.
Fragile skin can be caused by several factors, including genetics, environment, allergies, hormonal imbalances, and the use of inappropriate topical products
Sensitive V’s Sensitised Skin
Sensitive skin is inherited. Genetically, it is considered more delicate because it has a lower amount of pigment, a thin epidermis and blood vessels close to the skin surface, hence the appearance of redness. Sufferers are usually more prone to asthma and allergies. This skin type has a compromised barrier function which allows irritants, microbes and allergens pass to pass through, causing adverse reactions like stinging, pain, redness or flushing2.
Sensitised skin can be triggered in anyone, regardless of genetics. Many external factors may irritate the skin, causing sensitisation. Common triggers include cosmetic ingredients, dehydration, allergens, pollution and stress. Once a personal trigger is identified, exposure to it can be reduced or eliminated, and skin will return to good health.
Fragile skin, regardless of causation, requires extra soothing and restorative care.
Cornelius Can Help: SOS Soothing Balm is designed for use on areas of irritation or for all-over use on sensitised skin. It contains NEUROFENSE® from SILAB, a soothing active derived from the roots of red sage which is highly resistant to the cold. It acts on biological components of skin sensitivity – hyper-reactivity, skin barrier, inflammation – and restores comfort and protection to sensitive skin. A cooling effect on application is achieved with the use of CHT-BeauSil Wax 069 which melts at 32ºC. This body temperature melting point is what gives the product its instant cooling sensation. This speciality material is produced by our German based partner CHT, a global producer of speciality silicone materials, including silicone elastomers and silicone emulsions. Their extensive portfolio is created via a broad range of chemistries. Additionally, they offer bespoke products and tailored formulation support.
Fragile skin has multifaceted origins classified into four categories: constitutional, linked to age and seen in newborns, children, or seniors, or associated with specific vulnerable areas such as eyelids, neck, or décolleté; circumstantial, related to the environment, such as a response to pollution, humidity, sun exposure, and extreme weather conditions, or internal factors like stress; pathological, associated with skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, acne, rosacea, and contact dermatitis; and iatrogenic, related to dermatological procedures such as laser, peelings, dermabrasion, medical treatments for acne, and medical interventions, such as cancer therapies2
In the following sections we discuss some of these in more detail for a closer look at the skin specific effects and what is available in the market to help.
Baby Skin and Fragility
A constitutional form of fragile skin, an infant’s skin is fragile for several reasons. Primarily, it is still developing and therefore has an immature structure. It is thinner and more permeable than adult skin – the epidermis is 20% thinner and a stratum corneum 30% thinner – making it very vulnerable to external aggressors3.
In newborns, the acid mantle is still forming. At birth, babies’ skin has a near neutral pH – (6.5-7.5), but it gradually becomes more acidic over the first month of life. The acid mantle, a thin, slightly acidic film that covers the skin’s surface, is formed from a mixture of sweat, sebum, amino acids, lactic acid, and fatty acids. This unique composition gives the skin a pH value ranging from 4.5 – 5.5. In babies it acts as a defence, inhibiting the growth of harmful bacteria and fungi, whilst protecting against viruses and environmental irritants. It also prevents excessive moisture loss, keeping skin hydrated and supple.
A baby’s developing acid mantle is vulnerable, so mild surfactants should always be used. Skin dehydration can be prevented by using occlusive fatting agents, such as shea and cocoa butter, to seal in moisture.
Many well-known dermatology brands are now formulating evidence-based care for sensitive and atopic baby skin, frequently with paediatric and dermatologist endorsements. The CeraVe Baby range has been developed with paediatric dermatologists, and includes ceramides 1, 3, & 6-II to help restore and maintain the skin’s natural barrier. AVEENO® Baby Dermexa range is formulated for babies with very dry, itchy skin and is suitable for eczema prone skin.
Cornelius can help: We have a range of mild surfactants including CorFactant PO65 MB, a mild APG with lipid-layer enhancing properties; and CorFactant SCS 35, a specialty anionic surfactant, which is gentle on hair and skin but still has superior cleaning and foaming properties.
Stress, UV exposure & Air Pollution
Stress and climate-related dermatology issues are circumstantial and common forms of fragile skin among working age adults in major cities around the world.
Stress has a big impact on skin and can cause dryness, redness and sensitivity. Stress hormones, like cortisol and adrenaline, can led to a range of skin issues including increased oil production and a weakened barrier function- making it more susceptible to irritants and allergens. Chronic stress can exacerbate existing skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, acne and hives. It can also accelerate the ageing process by breaking down collagen and increasing free-radical damage.
Cornelius can help: ADAPTONYL is an anti-stress active which acts on all the factors of cutaneous exposome (environmental and lifestyle-related aggressions). Lifestyle stress, poor nutrition, smoking and lack of sleep are internal skin stressors, whilst solar radiation, temperature and pollution create external stress. ADAPTONYL, which is obtained from the adaptogenic Ayurvedic plant Ashwagandha, neutralises cell stress and restores cell metabolism. Evaluation on volunteers saw an overall improvement to the quality of the skin: cutaneous microrelief is smoothed, skin grain is improved and radiance is revived.
UV exposure
UV (ultra violet) radiation is a strong trigger for inflammation. This is induced through a process known as the ribotoxic stress response. This response is triggered by the damage to mRNA, which is responsible for carrying genetic instructions from DNA to ribosomes. Damage to mRNA leads to cell death and inflammation4. UV exposure was named a top trigger for rosacea flare-ups by 81 percent of patients in a National Rosacea Society survey5. Paradoxically, many eczema and psoriasis sufferers find that their skin improves in the summer months and with UV therapy if offered as a treatment for both conditions.
With rising awareness around the risks of sun exposure to skin, it is advisable for everyone to use SPF protection, even in the winter months, as incidental UV exposure causes damage long-term. Those with Rosacea are advised by the National Rosacea society to choose a non-chemical sunscreen, those that contain zinc or titanium dioxide, provide at least SPF 30 and have formula designed for sensitive skin, thus helping to reduce the possibility of irritation.
Many well-known brands have SPFs for sensitive skin available including PIZ BUIN® ALLERGY Sun Sensitive Skin Lotion and Soltan Sensitive & Sun Allergy Protect Spray SPF 30
Cornelius can help: CorTan DBT is broad range UV absorber suitable for use in daily skincare products to ensure regular protection from UV damage and resultant skin damage and inflammation.
HELIOMODULINE®, rich in peptides purified from cotton seeds, stimulates the natural DNA repair system and eliminates the damaged fragments, thus reducing the inflammatory effect of UV damage to skin.
Pretiox UVS 30 is a surface treated, low particle sized Titanium Dioxide with excellent UV absorption properties. Its rutile structure provides broad spectrum UV protection and the surface treatment improves stability. This physical, mineral sunscreen is non-whitening on the skin.
Our Daily Defence BB Cream contains all of these materials, providing excellent daily protection from UV damage. Contact us on sales.info@cornelius.co.uk for the full formulation
Air Pollution
Awareness is rising among consumers of climate-related dermatology issues, such as how air pollution can significantly impact skin health.
Air pollution can be categorised into several types, based on the nature of the pollutants. In the main, damage to skin is caused by airborne particles such as PM2.5, heavy metals and volatile organic compounds. These contaminants can penetrate deep into the skin6, leading to various issues like inflammation, premature ageing and even skin diseases.
Pollution can lead to skin inflammation and redness and exacerbate existing conditions like eczema or rosacea. The irritants trigger an inflammatory response in the skin, making it appear swollen and irritated. Exposure to pollutants has been linked to increased acne severity. Pollutants clog pores and disrupt the natural barrier, making it easier for bacteria to multiply and cause breakouts.
Studies have shown that exposure to pollutants accelerates the formation of fine lines and wrinkles. The combination of UV rays and pollution generates free radicals, which can damage collagen and elastin—two essential proteins for youthful skin. To fight the effects of UV and pollution, antioxidants and UV protection should be incorporated into daily skincare routines. The addition of a thorough cleansing routine and a specific pollution shield will provide added protection against these daily aggressors.
Recently launched by Youth to the People Supershroom Calm Cleanser, claims to be tough on dirt and pollution, whilst being gentle on sensitive skin. The soothing, milky texture ideal for dry and sensitive skin cleanses away pollutants and impurities without stripping the skin of moisture and is formulated with mushroom extracts and glycerin to reduce visible redness, soothe stressed skin, and soften rough skin texture. It is non-comedogenic, fragrance-free, pH-balanced, clinically and ophthalmologist-tested.
Cornelius can help: Our Clima-Control Pollution Protection Face Mist has an instant tightening effect and shields the skin from exogenous agents thanks to FILMEXEL®. This natural biopolymer forms a protective ‘second skin’ to shield skin from the damaging effects of pollution while delivering a tightening and anti-wrinkle action. Additionally, the mist contains OXYGESKIN®, a natural active, derived from Nasturtium flowers, that improves complexion radiance parameters in just 15 minutes. It also restores the skin’s adaptive capacity to overcome hypoxic stress, strengthens barrier function and limits damage caused by blue light.
Pathological forms of fragile skin
These related to skin conditions or diseases such as Psoriasis, eczema, acne, atopic dermatitis, rosacea and contact dermatitis.
Psoriasis
Psoriasis is a chronic skin disease that causes a rash with itchy, scaly patches, most commonly on the knees, elbows, trunk and scalp. The condition tends to go through cycles, flaring for a few weeks or months, then subsiding for a while. Common triggers in people with a genetic predisposition to psoriasis include infections, cuts or burns, and certain medications7. Topical and dermatological treatments used in conjunction with lifestyle management strategies are used to control flare-ups.
There are several types of psoriasis, each with different symptoms, the most common of which is Plaque psoriasis with characteristic dry, itchy, raised skin patches (plaques) covered with scales. There may be few or many of these patches, the colour of them varies depending on skin colour and the affected skin might heal with post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, particularly on brown or black skin.
Psoriasis is thought to be an immune system problem where infection-fighting cells attack healthy skin cells by mistake, causing skin cells to grow faster than usual, resulting in the dry, scaly patches. Researchers believe that both genetics and environmental factors play a role.
Eczema, dermatitis and dandruff
The words eczema and dermatitis are often used interchangeably, but eczema is a specific type of dermatitis8. Dermatitis is a general term for inflammation of the skin which encompasses conditions like allergic and irritant reactions. It can be temporary or chronic and occur anywhere on the skin.
Eczema refers to a group of chronic skin conditions characterised by itchy, dry and inflamed skin. The most common form is atopic, often begins in childhood and is associated with a family history of allergies and/or asthma. Eczema usually has specific patterns and bodily locations, such as behind the knees, and is often linked to genetic factors and a compromised immune system8.
Because eczema is a type of dermatitis, the two have a lot in common including symptoms and triggers. Both conditions can cause swelling, blisters, skin discoloration, severe itching, crusted patches, discharge, and other symptoms.
Seborrheic dermatitis is thought to be caused by excess skin oil and an overgrowth of a naturally occurring yeast called Malassezia. It affects areas of sebum secretion and hair growth – most commonly the scalp, beard area, eyebrows or around the nose. Symptoms include dandruff, scaly patches, rash or skin discoloration. When infants develop this, it’s known as cradle cap. Dandruff is a milder, non-inflammatory form of seborrheic dermatitis that is always found on the scalp8.
Stress can trigger flare-ups, as can certain foods, and irritants like perfumes and even certain clothing. Sufferers are advised to track their symptoms and triggers and make lifestyle changes to help avoid breakouts. Topical treatments, lifestyle and dietary changes can help manage symptoms.
Many cosmetic and dermo-cosmetic products are available to care for the dry, itchy skin associated with psoriasis and dermatitis. Epaderm Moisturising Cream for Dry Skin, is prescribed by doctors for the purpose. AproDerm® Colloidal Oat Cream is a gentle moisturiser containing colloidal oatmeal and apricot oil to comfort and hydrate dry skin conditions.
Whilst moisturisers are easy to find, tracking down specific beneficial treatments, like anti-wrinkle products, that are suitable for sensitive skin is more of a challenge. Retinol is an anti-wrinkle raw material that most consumers are familiar with but it is widely recognised as causing dryness and irritation on all skin types. Aveeno have created a range that contains a natural retinal alternative. Their dermatologist developed Age Renewal collection for sensitive skin is clinically proven to visibly reduce wrinkles and dark spots and improve firmness, while being gentle on sensitive skin. The range combines Oat, Niacinamide and a Natural Retinol Alternative to support skin renewal, leaving it radiant and more youthful in appearance.
Cornelius can help: VITANOL®, engineered by our partner SILAB, is a natural alternative to retinol with an anti-wrinkle, smoothing effect. Purified fraction of galactomannans from alfalfa, VITANOL® presents an anti-wrinkle retinoic-like activity thanks to metabolic stimulation at both dermal and epidermal stage and without any side effect. VITANOL® is thus recommended for facial and body anti-aging products alone or associated with retinol.
Natural waxes that create a protective barrier on the skin are very beneficial to dry, flaky skin. The use of Beeswax for skin care is centuries old, as it has always been prized for its ability to protect the skin and seal in moisture. We have a wide selection of natural waxes, including several grades of beeswax that can be incorporated into nourishing bases. We also have a portfolio of natural oils and butters to moisturise and nourish dry skin.
Rosacea
Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin condition; it mainly affects the middle of the face and is characterised by persistent facial redness. It typically has a relapse/ remit cycle, with symptoms often controlled by lifestyle and skin care routines, although medications and procedural interventions can be required in more severe cases.
Flushing (erythema) and broken blood vessels are the commonest signs of the condition but in more severe cases, most usually noted in the elderly, inflammatory papulopustular are present, these lead to thickening of the skin due to the enlargement of sebaceous glands.
Rosacea is estimated to affect around 5% of adults worldwide, it typically presents after the age of 30 and becomes more prevalent with age. However, it can occur at any age and is occasionally seen in children. Although rosacea can affect anyone, it is more common in those with fair skin.
Rosacea causes significant discomfort with dry skin accompanied by sensations of burning and stinging. There are a number of factors which commonly trigger a flare-up: Exposure to UV rays, which increases skin inflammation; extremes in temperature (hot and cold); drinking alcohol; eating spicy food; some cosmetics -especially exfoliants and alcohol based products. Lifestyle choices are key in managing the condition and sufferers are advised avoid their triggers, moisturise frequently, use gentle cleansers and sunscreens.
There are many products within the market that may work to improve the feel and appearance of rosacea-affected skin. Products like Milk Makeup Cooling Water Ice – a serum stick with a bouncy jelly texture that helps reduce the look of puffiness and redness. It provides a cooling sensation upon application (store in the fridge for extra chill) and contains the clinically proven Redness Calming Complex.
The causes of Rosacea are multifaceted with a series of complex biochemical processes underpinning causation. Whilst fascinating, there’s isn’t space to fully explore the subject here. For those interested, please check out this DermNet article – Rosacea: Symptoms, Causes, and Management – DermNet.
Acne
In the UK, the NHS reports 95% of people aged 11-30 experience acne, with symptoms improving from the mid-20s once hormone production settles down. However, approximately 3% of adults over the age of 35 suffer with acne. Symptoms are varied, encompassing oily skin, yellow spots, blackheads, pustules and eruptive cysts – primarily on their face, but sometimes on the back and/or chest areas.
Most commonly, acne is the result of skin reacting abnormally to testosterone levels which activate the sebaceous glands to produce oil during puberty. Those with acne have higher levels of sebum. In addition, the skin cells lining hair ducts may also react abnormally to testosterone, instead of shedding dead skin cells, they stick inside the duct, blocking the flow of sebum.
Throughout life, hormone levels fluctuate and acne may be triggered. It may also be induced by stress, poor diet or as a result of medication taken.
There is no “cure” for acne but many effective treatments are available to prevent new spots and reduce scarring. As a first step non-comedogenic products, suitable for blemish-prone skin, should be chosen. Over the counter topical treatments, containing ingredients like benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid and nicotinamide, are often effective for those with mild to moderate acne. Most of these treatments take two to four months to produce their full effect. If they are not effective, treatment from a healthcare professional is required.
Cornelius can help: We have a number of solutions in our portfolio to help acneic skin.
Our finished formulation – Second Skin Spot Treatment – is a targeted spot treatment which utilises the power of ACNESIUM®, part of SILAB’s Softcare range, it also contains Pecogel S-1120/A, which is a cosmetic polymer that holds the treatment in place and forms a protective film.
EXFOLACTIVE® engineered by SILAB, is a water-based natural exfoliating active derived from responsibly grown Prickly Pear flowers. It boosts the natural exfoliating capacity of the skin, promotes cell renewal and reduces the appearance of acne scars and age-spots and scars. Skin is left more radiant and uniform.
Our Activated Charcoal from Eurocarb is derived from Sri Lankan coconut shell and has been steam treated to activate its detoxifying, soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. It absorbs sweat and odour, deep cleanses and controls oil secretions. We also have a large portfolio of clays from our partner Argile Du Velay, including Green, Pink and Ghassoul. Each clay has its own unique properties but all are suitable for the care of acne-prone skin being sebum absorbing and deep cleansing. Green clay has impressive wound healing capabilities – contact us for more information.
Medical Interventions and Fragile Skin
Medical interventions such as cancer therapies, as well as dermatological procedures such as laser peelings, dermabrasions or medical treatments for acne are iatrogenic forms of fragile skin.
Many cancer treatments such as radiotherapy, affect the skin adversely, making the skin in the treated area red, sore and itchy; black or brown skin, it may become darker than surrounding skin. Treated skin is much more sensitive to the sun and broken veins may appear after treatment.
Some cancer drugs, including targeted therapies and immunotherapies can also make skin itchy and more sensitive. Certain drugs may make the palms of hands or the soles of feet red and sore (palmar-plantar syndrome) and hormonal therapies, along with some steroids may cause dry skin, rashes and occasionally cause spots.
Specialised advice on products to use and avoid is given to patients during treatment and guidance is also given by MacMillan Cancer Support. Cancer Pal is an online resource, providing a wealth of patient information, as well as an online shop stocked with oncology approved cosmetics and dermo-cosmetics. One such product is Oncology Approved MEME Soothing & Moisturising Scalp Mist, designed to nourish and soothe the discomfort of dry scalps and reactive skin. This bi-phase formula contains 88% natural ingredients and was developed according to a strict formulation charter, without any potentially harmful ingredients or ingredients associated with hormonal imbalances.
Psycho-dermatology & the Brain-Skin Axis
The skin, gut, and brain are interconnected through the gut-brain-skin axis, a bidirectional relationship where inflammation and dysbiosis (microbial imbalance) in one area can affect the others. This axis operates via immune, neuroendocrine, and microbial pathways, influencing conditions like psoriasis and atopic dermatitis. The Brain-Skin axis is starting to be explored in depth by the personal care industry in the fields of Neurocosmetics and Psychodermatology. At the recent “Bringing Psychodermatology into Personal Care” one day conference, hosted by the CCUK in Liverpool, experts spoke about links between the external appearance of the skin and physchological expression. One of the event speakers; Psyhodermatologist Dr. Alexandra Mizara, head of a specialist psychology service dedicated to dermatology patients at the Royal Free Hospital NHS Trust. Her research lies in the psychological management and wellbeing of people with psoriasis, acne and alopecia and their body image concerns. Appearance concerns are the main problem faced by people with these skin conditions and they frequently experience anxiety and trauma due to feelings of low self-worth. In turn stress can be a contributing factor to compromised skin conditions.
Products that not only treat the skin but calm the senses allow for relaxing rituals to become another tool for suffers of skin conditions to ease their symptoms. Any activities that reduce stress can reduce stress hormones like cortisol and boost mood enhancing hormones, like oxytocin and serotonin. Massage or ‘slow touch’ are two therapies that can help in combination with other treatments. Slow touch has been found to activate specialised nerve fibres, called C-tactile (CT) afferents. Activating these neural networks has been shown to trigger pleasant sensations, boost emotional regulation – releasing oxytocin and dopamine while lowering cortisol, and reduce sensations of pain and discomfort.
Cornelius can help: Our Laura Marshall finalist entry for SCS Formulate 2025 is the Snowflake CalmiBar™—the world’s first skincare bar to transform moments of discomfort into opportunities for mindful self-care. It has been designed to improve the quality of life for sufferers of dry, itchy, and irritated skin and is suitable for atopic dermatitis sufferers of all ages. Snowflake CalmiBar™ allows users to replace damaging scratch and skin-picking habits with a gentle sensory ritual and is the perfect tool to replace scratching with ‘slow touch’ – replacing sensations of pain and irritation with a pleasurable sense of calm. The unique bar contains the PhytoCalmi 4C complex of AD-RESYLTM, NEOLIPYLTM, MYOLINETM and NEUROFENSETM. These actives are clinically proven to: Reinforce the skins barrier function; prevent microbiome dysbiosis; reduce neuronal hyperreactivity; boost wellbeing modulators. To find out more about Snowflake CalmiBar™, and the actives of PhytoCalmi 4C, visit stand 220 at SCS Formulate November 11-12th 2025 or contact our sales team sales.enquiries@cornelius.co.uk .
To conclude: this is a vast topic with many sections and sub-sections. Almost everyone will at some point have compromised skin of some description. There is huge demand for products to alleviate the discomfort of compromised skin but also much demand for cosmetics that will prevent issues arising in the first place – particularly in the cases of UV and pollution protection. While the microbiome is now commonly recognised for its health impacts, the subjects of psycho-dermatology and the Gut/Brain/Skin axis are only just coming to mainstream attention, so will surely influence the personal care industry of the future.
References
1 Skin Fragility: Perspectives on Evidence-based Therapies – PMC
2 Product Development Skin Care, Personal Care, and Wellness: Claims and Terminology 2025 – 2028 – Beautystreams
3 Why is baby’s skin fragile? – Doucéa Academy
4 Beyond the burn: What UV radiation does to your skin – Heersink School of Medicine News
5 Sunscreen for Rosacea | Rosacea.org
6 Effects of Air Pollution on Cellular Senescence and Skin Aging – PMC