As summer approaches, many of us will re-focus on body care which tends to get neglected in the colder months when we’re swaddled in layers of clothing. Different body zones require area specific targeted solutions. The trend for “Zoning” is a growing one, driven in part by “Skintelligent” consumers who want to use the most effective solutions for specific concerns rather than a generic body lotion. The wellness trend is another driver, with home-spa products becoming a popular alternative to costly professional spa days.
Separate products to target under-arms, décolleté, hands, feet, butt and thighs are increasing in number but so too are cosmetics that target separate facial zones. Eye cream has long been a thing but targeted solutions for the lower face and neck are a new phenomenon.
Our brand-new Zoning Kit comprises of products for these separate body zones – as well as products that address the problems of scarring and chafing, skin concerns that are prone in certain areas of the body.
Summer Ready: Butt & Thigh
Areas that usually receive particular attention as we get prepped for Summer are the butt and thighs. A host of creams and lotions are available to minimise the twin enemies – cellulite and stretch marks.
Cellulite is most common on thighs, hips, buttocks and the abdomen. It consists of deposits of fat surrounded by fibrous connective tissue that gives the skin’s surface a dimpled appearance. There are layers of fat that store energy below the surface of the skin. Strong collagen fibres and membranes connect them to the skin but over time these stretch or break down and the fat cells grow. This leads to the “compartments” holding the fat cells get crowded and the fibres pulling down on the skin, creating the uneven surface of cellulite.1
Consumer favourite Brazilian Bum Bum Cream is designed to visibly smooth and tighten the appearance of skin thanks to potent, caffeine-rich Guaraná Extract. Cupuaçu Butter delivers hydration whilst Guaraná Extract and Açaí Oil provide anti-oxidant protection.
Medix Argan Oil Cream nourishes skin and encourages collagen production with the aid of Argan, coffee bean oil, fruit extracts and shea butter.
Honeydew Hot Cream Cellulite Treatment heats up when rubbed into the skin, as does B-Tight Lift & Firm Booty Mask. The mask contains Brazillian Peppermint “to smooth and tighten the look of fatty skin” and also the warming active Vanillyl Butyl Ether to provide the tingling sensation.
Stretch marks are actually scars that occur when skin rapidly stretches or shrinks. They appear as lines running across the skin and are very common – an estimated 90% of people have them. Pregnancy is a very common cause but any sudden changes in weight or rapid growth, such as in puberty, can cause their appearance. 2 Like other scars, they are likely permanent but usually fade over time.
There are steps that can be taken to disguise them in the short term and improve their appearance long-term: Whilst tanning can make stretch marks more noticeable – the marks do not tan – self-tan can camouflage both early and mature ones.
Two large studies showed that applying hyaluronic acid to early stretch marks made them less noticeable.
Retinol kick-starts cell turnover, triggering collagen production, thus improving the appearance of stretch marks. However, retinol is linked with skin sensitivity and it should not be used on skin which will be exposed in the short term to UV rays. Other materials derived from plant sources can be equally as effective and gentler on the skin.
Cornelius can help:
We supply CorTan DHA (Dihydroxyacetone) and CorTan DHB (Erythrulose). DHA, the main material used in self-tanners, is often combined with DHB which improves colour results and longevity. They react with amino acids and proteins in surface level dead skin cells to produce chemicals called melanoidins. This is the Maillard reaction.
Our Smooth & Tone Butt & Thigh Cream has luxurious feel and contains targeting actives to address cellulite and stretchmarks. The luxury feel, which was inspired by Brazilian Bum Bum Cream, has been created using modified silicone materials from our partner CHT. CHT-BeauSil® Wax 020 is an alkyl modified polysiloxane, with unique physical and chemical properties. It behaves more similarly to natural oils and waxes than classic dimethicone and has good compatibility with natural lipids. Its skin feel is luxurious and it aids spreadability. CHT-BeauSil® Gel 8187 EM is a silicone elastomer emulsion which provides an instant premium feel. It is easy to formulate with; use it at low temperatures, in the water or oil phase, with minimal emulsifier levels. To combat cellulite, PRO-SVELTYL®, derived from the sacred lotus has been included to reduce fat storage, prevent tissue inflammation and preserve the fibre architecture of the skin. To improve stretch marks we have used ELASTONYL®. This smoothing and toning active, derived from pumpkin seeds, protects and repairs elastic and collagenic fibres, reducing the visibility of stretch marks.
We supply CorCare VBE (vanillyl butyl ether) which creates a warming, tingling sensation upon rub-in. This is a popular addition to cosmetics which need to be massaged in for best results. The sensation implies to the end consumer that the heating action is making the product work more efficiently.
Heat-proof Comfort
Warmer weather can often lead to the occurrence of chafing. Sweat and friction combine to create a stinging sensation that may lead to a rash. The most common place for chafing to occur is the inner thighs but it can happen elsewhere on the body where skin or clothes rub. Products that reduce friction and moisture buildup combat this issue and many are available in the form of balms, powders, sticks and sprays.
BodyGlide Original Anti-Chafe Balm has long been a favourite with sports fans. It contains soothing allantoin, comes in a handy stick format and is long-lasting,
First Aid Beauty Anti-Chafe Stick also comes in a stick and contains soothing Bisabolol, nourishing shea butter and soothing colloidal oatmeal.
SKIN SLICK Continuous Spray Lubricant is in a spray format and is water and sweat-proof, making it ideal for water sports. It also helps prevent blisters, ideal for when breaking in new shoes.
Cornelius can help:
Our Soothing Anti-Chafe Stick features two natural waxes – sunflower and candelilla which provide stick strength and form a nourishing barrier on the skin that protects whilst aiding slip.
Our CorOil portfolio includes Shea, Castor, Coconut, Grapeseed, Sunflower and Sweet Almond. Our range of waxes from our partner Strahl & Pitsch, who have been selling quality waxes for over 120 years, includes Carnauba, Candelilla, Beeswax, Rice Bran and Microcrystalline. They also supply lanolin and petrolatum alternatives as well as fruit seed butters. These materials can be formulated in multiple combinations to create a variety of textures suitable for an array of anhydrous base types. Get in touch with your Cornelius rep to discuss base formulations and our comprehensive “Wax Matrix” formulation guide.
Hands
Hands often get a rough deal. Not only are they used for just about everything, making them the body part that suffers the most wear-and-tear, their skin is much thinner than that of the face and, surprisingly, more sensitive. Skin on the top of the hands is very delicate and can more easily show signs of aging. The hands are often neglected when it comes to regular sun protection and the cumulative UV exposure over time can lead to skin changes. 3
Hands will likely show age sooner, developing crepey skin, wrinkles and sunspots, yet they have frequently been ignored in terms of anti-ageing (most of us worry more about signs of facial ageing). However, a new trend for cosmetic procedures for the hands is emerging. This is discussed in a recent Allure article which reveals that increasing numbers of consumers are having fillers to correct volume loss and laser treatments to address sunspots. 4
Traditionally, hand creams have tended to focus on nourishment and barrier protection, but a raft of new era anti-ageing solutions are now available. “I think hands are the next frontier,” New York dermatologist Dr. Shereene Idriss told Bazaar magazine.
Retinol hand creams, such as Beauty Pie Super Retinol Anti-Aging Hand Treatment, are recommended by experts for promoting cell turnover, increasing collagen production, firming and smoothing wrinkles. However, as previously discussed, retinol can cause dryness and should not be used before UV exposure.
StriVectin Volumizing Hand Cream is a multi-tasker designed to plump and moisturise the skin, reducing crepeiness. as well as reduce wrinkles and brighten the skin. It is formulated with an optimised form of Niacinamide.
Perricone MD’s Cold Plasma Plus+ Hand Therapy Cream protects against dryness and improves the skin barrier. It contains amino acid glycine to reduce lines and wrinkles and shea butter to help boost and seal in moisture.
Cornelius can help:
Our new collagen boosting Hand & Foot Cream is a multi-tasker that boosts the hydration and elasticity of the hands and feet. The rich and nourishing cream instantly provides relief from dryness with the aid of LINCOL 40 MB, an emollient fatting agent that gives a soft non-greasy feel to the skin. It utilises EPIGENOMYL®, an active rooted in the science of epigenetics. It is derived from Calendula flowers and improves elasticity, smooths microrelief and improves skin uniformity.
CorTan DBT is broad range UV absorber suitable for use in daily skincare products, like hand cream, to ensure regular protection from UV damage and resultant wrinkles and age spots.
Neck and Décolleté
Located south of your chin, décolleté refers to the neck and upper chest — an area that often gets overlooked. As with the face, it’s prone to sun exposure and premature ageing. The décolleté has fewer restorative oil glands and thinner skin tissue than our faces.
The upper chest is one of the first places to age with the appearance of sun spots, crepey skin and visible blood vessels. It’s also a common area for skin cancers to develop5, as many of us fail to extend sunscreen, as well as moisturiser, below the base of our throats.
Natural ageing, genetic propensity, pollutants, UV exposure and weight changes are the chief causes of jowls and wrinkly “jecks” – the area where the jawline meets the neck. The thinner, drier skin of the neck as well as the breakdown of collagen and elastin (as with the rest of the face) leads to skin laxity and the appearance of wrinkles and jowls. The jawline and neck have very little subcutaneous fat, so any loss of volume and increased skin laxity are particularly apparent.
To compound the issue there’s “tech-neck” and “Ozempic Face” to worry about. Excessive time spent looking down at phone and tablet screens lead to an increase in lines, especially horizontal, on the neck and increase the likelihood of jowls due to gravity loosening the skin when the head is in a bent position. Rapid weight loss, whether through lifestyle changes or medications like Ozempic, can lead to sagging and/or gauntness.
This area requires dedicated care and consumers are increasingly seeking out firming fixes that deliver salon-grade results at home. In addition to topical applications, tech devices that combat sagging and loss of definition are gaining in popularity.
Lux Skin Face Sculpting Tool is advertised as “an advanced alternative to Gua Sha.” This facial massaging device combines red LED light, ultrasonic vibrations and heat therapy to slim, contour, and define the facial features whilst tightening the skin. The red LED light reduce fine lines, improve skin texture, collagen production, and circulation. Heat therapy increases the absorption of skin care products. Ultrasonic vibrations reduce inflammation and puffiness, increase muscle stimulation, improve the facial contours, and help define the cheekbones and jawline.
FaceGym’s skin care range is inspired by the brand’s signature non-invasive, face-sculpting facial workouts. Liftwear Gel Moisturiser is formulated to firm, lift, and brighten. A marine biotech ingredient provides lift. The lightweight, daily hydrating treatment also contains hyaluronic acid and amino acids.
VOL.U.LIFT™ GLP-1 4D Skin Rebound Complex has been formulated by a plastic surgeon specifically to counteract the skin changes experienced by GLP-1 users, which includes drugs like Ozempic for treatment of Diabetes or weightloss. The multidimensional formula, based on a volumising complex and patent-pending XOSM™ Technology, works to improve four key signs of ageing: deflation, deep wrinkles, dehydration and density loss. It is both a corrective and preventive treatment.
Cornelius can help:
VOLUNAGE® fights the premature aging by regulating cellular communication. Negative pro-inflammatory exchanges between the dermis and the hypodermis are thus controlled. VOLUNAGE® preserves the functionality of the hypodermis and allows the skin to recover its density and elasticity. VOLUNAGE® remodels the contour of the face and restores its oval; it is thus recommended in all face care products.
Rich in oligosaccharides from common shrubby everlasting, ETERNALINE® regenerates the extracellular matrix by stimulating the synthesis of periostin which slows down over time. The structure of collagen fibers is regenerated and dermal tissue is consolidated. The skin regains firmness and tone, wrinkles are reduced and the oval face is strengthened. ETERNALINE® is recommended in all anti-aging regenerative day/night skin care products.
Our new Décolleté Spritz contains MATRIBUST®, a Jojoba derived active, created specifically for the décolleté area. This firming active, targets sagging skin, protects dermal fibres from fragmentation and revitalises the dermal-epidermal junction structures.
Our new Décolleté Spritz contains MATRIBUST® – obtained from a traceable and secure supply chain of a co-product from jojoba, this firming active ingredient is dedicated to neck and décolleté beauty. It specifically targets the modifications of the dermis and dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) by regulating the matrisome of sagging skin. Dermal fibers are protected from fragmentation and the DEJ’s structure is revitalized. By restoring density and tone to the skin, MATRIBUST® is the ideal highly firming care for the neck and décolleté.
Scars
Scars are specific skin concern that can occur anywhere on the body. They can arise due to accident, as the result of an operation or as an after-effect of skin conditions such as acne or eczema.
Annually 100 million people worldwide develop a scar. It is estimated that 40-70% of patients undergoing surgery develop hypertrophic scars6.
Dependent on severity of acne, 46%-82% are likely to suffer from scaring7.
An increase in aesthetic treatments such as laser, plasma, CO2 resurfacing & laser tattoo removal further necessitate the need for products to promote skin healing and prevent scar formation.
Silicone Therapy is well documented to minimise scar formation during healing. It is performed with Silicone Elastomers, either in the form of highly cross-linked rubber like sheets, which are placed on the wound while healing, or less crosslinked gel consistency products suitable for topical application6.
Silicone therapy reduces the likelihood of scars developing a bumpy texture during healing, provides an optimal healing environment by maintaining hydration levels in the skin and can minimise discomfort and itching during healing.
BAP Medical are a healthcare brand that provide a collection of products and devices. Their BAPSCARCARE range comprises four silicone therapy designed to improve the speed and quality of skin healing. Existing scars become flatter, smoother and thinner. Scars are less disfiguring, and in many cases becomes almost invisible. Bapscarcare ensures visible reduction, even in cases of thickened scar tissue having formed thick ‘strands’ on the skin.
Cornelius can help:
We have two products to alleviate scarring at different stages of the healing process. Silicone Therapy Scar Gel aids healing and minimises scar formation. This rich feeling silicone gel forms a barrier over the area of scar/compromised skin, protecting it from further damage and locking in moisture to limit the discomfort of itching or skin tightness. To achieve this, it utilises silicone gels and waxes, including CHT-BeauSil® Gel 8014. This Silicone Elastomer forms a fine, occlusive layer to smooth the skin surface and decrease TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss), ensuring fresh scar tissue will be provided with optimal moisture levels. As a result, the appearance of scars improves – they become lighter, more pliable and flatten. Additional actives further aid healing. AD-RESYL® a purified natural active ingredient rich in fructosans from Mondo grass, especially developed through the expertise of SILAB Softcare. Its efficacy has been demonstrated on the four main pillars of atopic dermatitis, thus restoring barrier function, decreasing inflammation, reducing pruritus and itching, and re-equilibrating the microbiota. Clinically tested, this active ingredient brings comfort to the skin, improves the quality of life of adults and children suffering from atopic dermatitis. AD-RESYL® is the best ally for atopic skin in everyday care.
For existing scars Scar Fading Aqua Gel has been created. This base contains just 20% silicones but has the feel of a traditional silicone gel. Because it has a large water ratio it allows for the use of water based active EXFOLACTIVE®, a natural material based on Prickly Pear flowers. It promotes cell renewal, reduces acne scar marks and makes skin more uniform.
To conclude, the trend for Zoning is a wonderful innovation opportunity for the cosmetics industry. The savvy consumers desire to invest time and money in caring for specific areas provides huge scope for the development of these targeted solutions. Designated actives are highly relevant but so too are the raw materials that provide texture and sensorial benefits.
Launching Next Week! Our Brand-New Zoning Kit
Our brand new Zoning Kit, which will be launched next week, has been developed in our Cornelius labs where we proactively respond to market-place trends, producing finished formulations using our extensive portfolio of innovative raw materials. If you have been inspired by any of the materials featured in our “Cornelius can help” segments, please contact your Cornelius representative. Alternatively, you can request a sample via sales.enquiries@cornelius.co.uk or use the button below.
References:
1. MedlinePlus. Cellulite.
2. Stretch Marks: How to Get Rid of Them, Causes, and More
3. The 17 Best Anti-Aging Hand Creams to Shop in 2024
4. People Are Getting More Lasers and Filler—On Their Hands | Allure
5. Décolletage: 10 Skin Care Strategies, Tips for Chest Wrinkles