Jennifer's Cosmetics Trend Report
(Posted on 03/03/17)
Hello, and welcome to this month's edition of Trends!
Eyebrow grooming has been big news for a number of years now - ever since Cara Delevingne inspired us all with her bold brows - and caused the UK's eyebrow grooming market to grow into a ã¿€million sector. Mintel's latest research shows 71% of 45-54 year old UK women groom their brows and the figure jumps to 80% amongst professionals. A new post Brexit brow shape has emerged - straight and sharp, it's less about glamour and more about control. Brow styling heroes of the moment are: Shavata's Brow strengthener a cold pressed castor oil which is said to prevent thinning and greying; Burberry's Effortless Eyebrow Definer a dual ended product to colour and shape; Legendary brows a product which took Charlotte Tilbury five years to design, features a micro fine smart brush that lengthens, conditions and tints eyebrow hairs instantly.
The attached photo from Louis Vuitton SS17 show in Paris demonstrates the new straight shape.
Cornelius can help: Strahl & Pitsch have a wide selection of waxes which can be blended with Olvea natural vegetable oil and Huntsman's iron oxide pigments to create all manner of brow styling formulations.
Ciaté's Magic Pout Potion Primer is hydrating and boosts the production of hyaluronic acid with Volulip technology for a plumper pout. It's the perfect primer for matte lip colour as it grips the colour to promote even application and is even said to ensure all day wear. It should be allowed to dry fully before lipstick is applied over it.
Cornelius can help: Volunage®by Silab is a re-plumping active derived from the Peony. Designed to offset the appearance of ageing as a result of loss of facial volume, the product is adaptable enough to add to lip products to increase volume there. Pro-Hyal®+ increases HAS2 expression and sodium hyaluronate acid synthesis to improve hydration and smooth lines and wrinkles.
Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Concentrated Recovery Eye Mask taps into the trend for masks for specific areas of the face. The crescent shaped masks are applied under eyes and infused with Advanced Night Repair technology which delivers a hit of soothing, hydrating ingredients. Used as a weekly at night-time, the mask is sold in a two part pack - pad and concentrated treatment - and the user saturates the pad in the treatment and then applies to clean skin. It is left on for 10 minutes before pads are removed then, any remaining serum can be patted into the skin. A panel test of 102 women were impressed with the immediate results - 91% felt hydrated, 89% felt calm and soothed and 82% said their eyes looked more radiant.
Cornelius can help: Eye Regener®, derived from white lupin, has a superior anti-eyebag effect. It fights skin slackening, increases firmness and tone and favours lymphatic drainage to reduce bag volume. Actiflow® EL improves microcirculation to lighten up under eye dark circles. Enhancing the resilience of the capillary vessels thus reducing blood circulation to the area and cutting vascular congestion to reduce the appearance of dark shadows and bags for a more uniform complexion.
Facialist Abigail James has told Glamour magazine that she thinks at-home technology will become bigger this year. Meanwhile A-list facialist Sarah Chapman tells readers to look out for radio frequency tools this year which focus on skin tightening at home. The magazine reviews some such products in their March edition: Talika Pigment Control from Space NK combines ionotherapy micro-currents to boost the absorption of brightening products, light therapy to control melanin production and micro-vibrations to stimulate fresh cell production. FaceGym Pro emits muscle-stimulating electrical pulses to lift, tone and sculpt your face with 10 minutes daily use. Gold Derma Roller also from FaceGym is said to pep up collagen levels for radiant looking skin. The new Olay Skin Advisor app has an analytics tool that estimates visible skin age and recommends a personalised skincare solution - all it requires is a selfie and the answers to a few questions.
Beauty brand 72 Hair has announced the launch of its Intense Replenishing Mask. Designed to de-frizz, strengthen and replenish moisture, this new mask leaves hair shinier, stronger and well nourished. The mask is infused with keratin, germ oil and avocado. Available at selected salons nationwide and online, it's been given a glowing reference by the British Beauty Blogger.
Cornelius can help: Nutrilan® Keratin LM - Hydrolyzed Keratin is low molecular weight for better hair penetration whilst promoting hair renewal and protecting against breakage. We also have a vegan alternative to natural keratin - Gluadin® Kera-P LM - Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein. The product reduces surface damage on the hair and is 100% derived from natural, renewable feed stocks. Both materials would make an excellent addition to a replenishing mask and are cold processable, non-GMO and Cosmos has been applied for.
Herbal Essences new shampoo and conditioner combo is Daily Detox which promises to gently remove impurities like pollution, sweat and build-up without the use of silicones or heavy residue. Interesting the pollution claims have now moved into mainstream hair-care.
Cornelius can help:Denoxyline®, derived from green tea, is antioxidant active specifically created to protect hair colour which is susceptible to oxidisation reactions from pollution, solar radiation salt and chlorinated water. It has anti-free radical action when used as a preventative measure and also as a post irradiation treatment.
Kanebo have found a novel way to help men fight body odour issues. The brand conducted a study and found that 60% of Japanese men were concerned about body odour but culturally Japan appreciates very subtle scent which rules out strong smelling antiperspirants. To overcome this issue the brand have created Lissage Men Aromatic Cream, formulated with essential oils to neutralise unwanted odours and botanical moisturisers to prevent dryness. "Instead of masking unwanted body odours with strong fragrance we use a subtler technique" said The brands Head of Perfumery Development and Research.
Cornelius can help: Our portfolio includes many essential oils with a specific benefits, suitable for a wide variety of cosmetic applications.
Pevonia have added two new products to their line-up of Pevonia Spa Care For Him collection - Collagen Boost Face Balm and Collagen Boost Eye Contour. The face balm is formulated with palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptides-7 for skin regeneration, marine collagen and elastin, plus vitamins C and E to protect, preserve and repair the youthfulness of mens skin. Neuropeptideacetyl hexapeptide-8 is used in the eye contour product as a muscle relaxer to help smooth expression lines around the eyes.
Cornelius can help: We have available two male specific actives - SMS Energy® and SMS Anti-wrinkle®. Sugar apple derived SMS Anti-wrinkle® is recommended for mens anti-aging skincare products. It boosts keratinocyte differentiation and cohesion and boosts the synthesis of collagen. After 28 days wrinkles are reduced, skin firmness improved and skin tone restored. SMS Energy® is recommended for energising and anti-fatigue skincare for men. Rich in purified oligopeptides obtained from chick pea, it reinforces the bioenergetic potential of the skin and boosts cell renewal. Tested on male volunteers, it increases skin tone, it reduces skin fatigability and improves skin complexion.
P&G are launching a shampoo bottle made from up to 25% recycled beach plastic, said to be a world first. The French retail giant Carrefour will supply the limited edition H&S bottles this summer. P&G claims the product, which has been developed in partnership with recycling experts TerraCycle and SUEZ, is the world’s largest production run of recyclable bottles made with post-consumer recycled (PCR) beach plastic. By the end of 2018, its' operation in Europe will be offering more than 500 million bottles per year. The figure represents more than 90% of all the hair care bottles sold in Europe across P&G’s hair care portfolio of flagship brands like Pantene and Head & Shoulders. The project will require a supply of 2,600 tonnes of recycled plastic every year.