Jennifer's Cosmetics Trend Report: December 2016

Jennifer's Cosmetics Trend Report: December 2016

(Posted on 08/12/16)

Hello and welcome to this month's edition of Trends!

Barry M Mist & Fix setting sprays fix make-up in place whilst hydrating and conditioning the skin and protecting it from dirt and pollution. Each ultra-light spray - available in dewy and matte finish - provides a fresh feeling boost to the skin.

Make-up setting sprays have been around a while. Urban Decay launched an early entry to the market some years ago with All Nighter Long-lasting Makeup Setting Spray which achieves longevity with patented Temperature Control Technology.

Makeup fixing mists are the focus of an article on 22nd November by Mintel's Michelle Strutton who says: "The challenge for brands is to develop a fixing mist that noticeably extends make-up life but is also lightweight and imperceptible on the skin. Delivering long-wear performance without compromising on a natural skin feel will satisfy consumers’ desire for a polished yet ‘no make-up’ effect. Polymers used as film formers in hair styling are already being reapplied to make-up setting sprays. Another route would be to explore natural polymers used as structuring agents in the food industry. This plays on Mintel’s Gastronomia trend, where consumers are reassured to see food ingredients in their beauty care products."

Now, with anti-pollution being such a big focus, it is probable that other brands will wish to follow Barry M’s example, encompassing anti-pollution technology into this type of finishing product. We have seen anti-pollution facial sprays emerge as a big trend from Asia and, with this in mind,Cornelius created our own Pollution Defence Mist as part of our Waters kit earlier this year. This uses Filmexel to form a protective barrier against pollution. Moreover, when used at its maximum usage level of 1%, as in our product, Filmexel provides tightening and long-term anti-ageing benefits.

Now with the trend emerging for pollution fighting setting sprays this could be our next development.

My colleague Ella Ceraulo recently attended theIn-Cosmetics Formulation Summit 2016 which had a huge focus on anti-pollution. Since attending she has shared her newly acquired knowledge on the subject with her Cornelius Care colleagues who all now have a sound understanding about the implications of this trend on our industry.

Further reading on anti-pollution trend can be found in Katerina Steventon's article on the Cosmetic & Toiletries website.

Consumers desire for natural products is as strong as ever and rather than being a trend it is now an expected mainstay that many have come to demand in addition to more transient trends featuring in their product of choice. Two particular oils currently in vogue are Tsubaki and Manketti.

Tsubaki is great in all type of personal care products. In hair care it softens hair and makes it more manageable. Restoring natural sheen and helping retain moisture whilst forming a barrier against environmental pollutants. It's a fast-absorbing moisturiser that diminishes fine lines and wrinkles, has a silky, creamy texture that is non-comedogenic, making it great for skincare applications. Being nourishing, softening and great for restoring bounce and elasticity the versatile oil is also a good choice in body care products. Shiseido have a range of shampoos containing this super oil and Boscia have a whole range of skincare products available including a newly launched splash mask.

Manketti (also known as Mongongo) oil is particularly prized in haircare as it forms a protective and emollient film on the surface, acting as a barrier to prevent moisture from escaping the core of the hair. High levels of polyunsaturated fatty acids add gloss and improve comb-ability by smoothing the surface of the hair. Healing Earth have an entire collection of spa treatment products based around it's therapeutic benefits.

Bamboo is a material that has been popular in the Korean beauty arena and is now making its mark in the western market place. Bamboo is the overachiever of plant life, thanks to its ability to grow up to 23 inches a day. "Raw bamboo sap mimics natural moisturizing factors found in your skin," says Sarah Lee, co-founder of Korean beauty e-tailer Glow Recipe. It's ability to grow so fast makes it very attractive as a raw material as it is super-sustainable. Rich in minerals, amino acids, and antioxidants it aids cell regeneration, is an excellent hydrator and deeply nourishing.

Eborian Bamboo Waterlock Mask has a refreshing aqua gel moisture texture and is enriched with a unique complex of bamboo sap and fibres to help skin feel smoothed, hydrated, and plumped with water. During an independent consumer test of 16 participants 94% agreed that skin felt instantly moisturised, softer and smoother.

Primary Raw DoYou Azulene Gel Cream is a lightweight, watery gel cream that instantly absorbs into the skin for soothing hydration. Formulated with calming azulene, collected from steam-distilling, delicate chamomile flowers and bamboo sap, it helps fortify the skin's natural moisture barrier. Skin appears aqua-filled, a Korean skincare term referring to plump and bouncy, youthful-looking skin.

In hair care Alterna's Bamboo Luminous Shine Mist eliminates frizz and leaves any hair type with a sheer mirror like finish. The weightless finishing mist has added colour protection technology and tames flyaways.

Cornelius can help: We have a large portfolio of natural materials including Manketti and Tsubaki oils. Additionally, we offer three ways of delivering Bamboo to your formulation – with Bamboo water, Bamboo extract and also Bamboo Charcoal Scrub (Black). Please contact us for further information.

Simple Kind To Skin Hydrating Cleansing Oil is made with 100% natural grape-seed oil and enriched with vitamins A & E, leaving skin clean and well hydrated. It's an effective way to cleanse and lift away even waterproof make-up without stripping or irritating the skin.

Cornelius can help: RetiStar is a ready blended combination of Vitamins A, C and E which is blended with to allow for easy drop in to formulations. We used this material in our Ultra Brightening Vitamin Essence which we showcased at Formulate.

HiMirror has launched what is being hailed as the first smart beauty mirror, continuing the trend for technology driven cosmetic aids. The newly launched device provides consumers with a new way to measure the effect of their lifestyles on their skin and track the efficacy of products from the comfort of their own homes. It contains a high resolution camera to capture photos that can be analysed for changes to pigmentation (dark and red spots), eye circles, wrinkles, enlarged pores and other complexion elements. Producing a Skin Index Synthesis report, it evaluates skin firmness, brightness, texture, clarity and overall health. With memory function, users can keep a log of skin care goals and enter the results of products they have used, as well as feedback. Skin care products can be scanned into the system by barcode and product expiration alert reminders can be set. Simon Shen, CEO of Taipei-based New Kinpo Group, said: “HiMirror is a technology-driven tool that will become indispensable for consumers – an essential part of their daily beauty routine helping them evaluate their skin and what works for their individual skin care needs.”

Korean brand Missha's Super Aqua D-Tox Peeling Gel is designed for those with sensitive skin prone to breakouts. The luxurious feeling gel contains fruit, milk and morus bark extracts as well as tiny beads that reveal clearer, cleaner and healthier looking skin. Milk extracts give the skin a natural glow while caffeine and green tea extracts rejuvenate and refresh tired, dull looking skin.

Cornelius can help: This product contains JRS's Vitacel CS 150F, a 100um fibre which gives a balling up effect at 10-15%. This can be teamed up the with Vitacel exfoliants for skin peel products that create the effect of uber-exfoliation.

Pacifica Underarm Deodorant Wipes are an innovative formula utilizing natural ingredients with effective odour control and protection that can last for hours. Designed to stop underarm malodours and remove excess perspiration, it is used as a deodorant in the morning and then reapplied as needed. This new approach to daily deodorizing has been adopted by a few companies now and are being marked as an easy to "chuck in your bag" product - more convenient than carrying round a bulky spray can.

Another charcoal product has hit the shelves. Yes,To Detoxifying Charcoal Wipescontain charcoal, lycopene and salicylic acid to cleanse skin and remove impurities. Reviews show them to be a marmite product with consumers either loving or hating them. They are made of black fabric which is compostable and are said to be 95% or more natural and cruelty free.

Cornelius can help: Wipes are particularly useful to freshen the complexion throughout the day – especially on oily skin. Silab have some actives which are especially created for breakout prone skin. Sebonormie is rich in gallotanins and ellagitanins extracted from meadowsweet. It reduces sebum secretions by inhibiting the 5α-reductase activity, limits sebaceous excretion thanks to an astringent effect and prevents bacterial proliferation.  It can be used alone or conjunction with p-Refinyl an active based on green lentil that reduces pore visibility and refines the skin grain. It acts on three major factors responsible for the dilatation and slackening of pores: limits the excessive sebum production, favours the complete keratinocyte maturation, and stimulates the the collagen I synthesis.

For more information, contact Jennifer Hermitage on 01279 714 300 or