Key take-aways from in-cosmetics 2016
(Posted on 20/04/16)
The time came around again last week for one of our favourite annual shows, In-cosmetics, a leading global business event for personal care ingredients that took place in Paris from 12th – 14th April.
We have once again been blown away by the show, which gets more impressive every time and this year, we noticed a few new additions, which we loved.
A sensory bar, which allowed visitors to feel the incredible new textures innovative formulators are coming up with. From powdery pastes which transform to a luxury oil, to thick creams which turn into watery gels, the use of ingredients to create new skin feels are truly able to be appreciated.
Next, a brand new purpose built Formulation Lab (see image 1), which allowed visitors to attend an hour of practical formulation sessions.
We saw a lot more focus on the USA this year, where Jeen, RITA, Teluca and Strahl and Pitsch wowed us yet again.
The Fragrance and Testing/Regulation zone enabled visitors to cover the ever-challenging new product development process and finally, who could forget the huge range of topics covered by the market trend and innovation seminars? Touching upon the challenges of preservation to the digital transition for cosmetics manufacturers, the seminars were truly inspiring.
As a result, we present our view of the top trends and key takeaways from the show:
The ever-worrying problem of pollution has made its way to skin health; pollutants cause thirsty, dull-looking skin by causing oxidative and DNA cell damage, which prematurely ages skin over time.
Silab launched breakthrough ingredient Filmexel (see image 2), the natural biopolymer with an impressive molecule matrix proven to block pollutants from entering the skin, as well as create a lifting effect.
The focus was also on Mitokinyl, an anti-pollution natural active ingredient, regulating the synthesis of mitokines and the deactivation of AhRand major biological pathways identified in the fight against pollution.
Other new launches in the antipollution category including Symrise and Vantage who have launched products at the show (see image 3).
In addition, major sub trend launches in the Actives category this year were in Photo Aging Reversal, Anti dark spot formation (see image 4), and Cell Senescence.
With health and wellbeing a key concern for modern consumers, we were bound to see some new innovations in this category. The close connection of the skin to the neurological system was revisited with one launch, (see image 5).
Scalp health and skin friendly systems were a recurring theme in this year’s innovation area too. (see image 6).
RITA’s Acyl Lactylates are likely to have a huge impact on the in-shower moisturiser formulations this year, imparting an incredible feel on the skin and lowering trans-epidermal water loss.
Olvea showcased their new Virgin Pressed Sesame oil which is highly rich in linoleic acid (omega-6). This fatty acid is essential because the human body cannot synthesise it and is known for the important role it plays in the structure of cell membranes. In addition to the wellness aspect, this sustainably soured oil is pressed in Burkina Faso, ensuring the added value parts of production are kept close to source.
New Ingredient backgrounds
New ingredient introductions are always a highlight at these shows and this year certainly didn’t disappoint. We saw cherry blossom, Mayan guava and Oyster shell powders (as a new natural alternative to PE) from the Morbihanic Coast.
Natural pigments and biodegradables
The environment is such a growing concern among consumers meaning natural and biodegradable ingredient alternatives are flourishing. We were impressed with the unique blue shade of Natural Flamenco from BASF and a biodegradable glitter highlighted by Sigmund Londoner. World Natural Care also appeared at the innovations area with natural bright pigments that were even edible!
With textures such a huge factor in skin care, the competition was fierce.
Strahl and Pitsch were taking make-up removal to a new level with their balms (see image 8) and we were sweetened up by the ImerCare™ candyfloss face-mask containing perlite scrub (see image 9).
The Cornelius Care Team also saw some fascinating texture transformations in the powder to oil cleanser from Basf (see image 10) and the Jeen blurring balm to powder (see image 11).
We still love Olvea’s Shea butter esters, in the form of three magnificent textures: silky, glossy and creamy. All three leave a high shine on skin and hair, with the Creamy Shea having an identical texture to set honey, perfect for body or lip butters.
Other key trends and take-aways included:
- Menopausal skin: innovations with cellular communication
- Advanced retinol: a stabilising ingredient which enables high load was launched
- Growth in epigenetics: first introduced last year by Silab’s Epigenomyl
- Haircare: Plantasil 4V – the brilliant new conditioning ingredient from BASF, Heat activated protective hair film, Polyelectrolyte Complex Three by Ashland (see image 12)
- Waters: The new luxury - Floral, Tree and Botanical (see Image 18)
- Waterless: Mintel and RITA both showcased water-free formulations
- Sensations: Ice sensation from Lecigel created a unique a gel-to-ice feeling (see image 13) as well as snow melt cream from Strahl and Pitsch
- Synthetic wax lipsticks: highlighted by Strahl and Pitsch (see image 14) and Jeen (see image 15)
- Cellulose: including JRS powders and film shapes
- Lip care with claims: Bloomage Freda had Hyacolor, an oil dispersed Hyaluronic Acid, supported by immediate and long term data, along with Oat oils who also had some colourful formulations
What a show, what inspiration, what next?