Jens Trends - Winter 2019

(Posted on 12/12/19)

Coty have bought a 51% stake in Kylie Jenner’s beauty business—which includes Kylie Cosmetics and Kylie Skin—for $600 million. Jenner will keep a 49% stake in Kylie Cosmetics and remain the creative lead on both product development and marketing initiatives, particularly on social media, where she has 270 million followers across platforms. Kylie Cosmetics is the second-most-followed brand on Instagram, a huge draw for Coty who are looking to appeal to a younger demographic with the purchase.

Minimalism is a trend to watch out for in 2020 as more and more consumers realise that good skin care does not need to be complicated. The Korean trend for the "skincare diet" is the antithesis to the infamous 12-Step K beauty routine that was so talked about three to four years ago. In basic terms, the Skincare Diet is all about minimising the steps in your skincare routine to limit the chance of irritation. The routine sticks to cleanser, moisturiser and SPF, and all the products are typically mild. "People have been piling on so many different products that they've developed redness, sensitivity, and even worse - contact dermatitis," says Liah Yoo, the founder of sold-out success KraveBeauty. Based in New York, the YouTube star is the stateside face of the Skin-Care Diet. 

Another trend which has caused severe skin allergies in consumers is their devotion to clean beauty. In September, a report published by JAMA Dermatology said the "unwarranted avoidance" of man-made chemicals coupled with the increased use of botanicals in beauty products "has been associated with a new epidemic of contact dermatitis". Common culprits include home-made, food based face masks that are not used immediately - these are a breeding ground for bacteria and can lead to spots and rashes; and essential oils which many people are sensitive to. Coupled with the trend for DIY cosmetics, the issue is exacerbated as the user can add far more of the essential oil than would be present in a shop bought preparation.

According to a recent Mintel report, over 50% of UK consumers now research brands for information on their ethical stance before purchasing products and are choosing brands who emulate their own values. Additionally, sales of natural products in the UK have risen year on year since 2010 - with sales going from £27.7m to £86.5m in 2018. 
At this years annual SCS Formulate exhibition, Cornelius presented Ethical Cosmetics. Ayesha Kidy explained how consumer led trends are translated into intelligent formulations that are aware of the pitfalls of "green-washing", painting all "chemicals" as dangerous and how a new EU regulation has come into effect to to police these misleading claims. Ayesha suggested that a sensible route forward could be to use the new ISO standard 16128 on naturality which uses a clear calculation of natural origin moiety to demonstrate the natural origin of a product in clear percentage terms. She also covered biodegradability, supply chain transparency, processing and provenance during her presentation and linked these themes to three new formulations from Cornelius: Anti-Pollution Moisturiser, Bio-glitter Jelly Wash and Natural Peeling Glitter Mask.
For a copy of the presentation, speak to your Cornelius representative.

Avon Distillery is a new ethical collection from the long established brand, it encompasses skincare and colour cosmetics . Distillery products have a premium feel to them and are vegan friendly, allergy tested, dermatologically tested, clinically tested and fragrance free. The skincare collection comprises: CleanBreak Cleanser - a super-hydrating cleansing balm infused with apricot oil, mango butter and cocoa butter that works to gently melt away stubborn make-up to reveal supple skin; Purify Facial Oil - renews dull, congested skin with a silky blend of jojoba oil, vitamin E and cloudberry extract; Shade The Day SPF25 Day Cream - a muti-tasker for sensitive skin it contains 100% pure mineral sunscreen, 100% plant based glycerine and distilled rose extract; C-Shot Powder - a shot of Vitamin C that is added to favourite skincare products to enhance brightness and provide antioxidant protection; Sleep Potion Night Cream - a crystal clear potion that provides 48 hours of moisturisation, shrinks pores and leaves skin glowing. Distillery Make-Up comprises: Lip Rush - an intense lip paint that comes in 12 shades and uses vegan-friendly emollients; Shadowshots Eyeshadow - a vibrant mineral eyeshadow with buttery-soft texture available in two matte and five shimmer shades; Lash'd Up Mascara - provides double the lash volume and made using sunflower wax, rice bran wax and mineral pigments.

Cornelius can help: Our wide portfolio encompasses oils, butters, vitamins, extracts and effect pigments. For help choosing the perfect shade of mineral based effect pigment for all your colour cosmetics needs, head to BASF's handy new pigment finder-

Shiseido have launched two new products within their Synchro Skin range. Self Refreshing Foundation has a weightless finish that is resistant to heat, humidity, oil and even motion. The fluid formulation gives medium, buildable coverage with a all day hydration. Suitable for all skin types, it is available in 30 shades.
Skin Correcting Gel Stick Concealer provides crease resistant coverage with a weightless, cushioning formulation. It has an ultra creamy feel and gives medium, buildable coverage with a natural finish to disguise blemishes, fine lines and other imperfections. It too is smudge resistant, humidity resistant and gives all day hydration. Available in 15 shades, it is dermatologist/ophthalmologist tested and suitable for all skin types.

Cornelius can help: To help increase the longevity of aqueous based colour cosmetics we supply Pecogel S-1120/A from Phoenix Chemicals, a cosmetic polymer with superior hold qualities. Additionally, multi-functional active Filmexel
® extends the wear time of foundations whilst providing an instant tensing effect and pollution protection. BASF Color & Effects Timica® Terra pigments are fully blendable and have a silk finish that enable the formulator to create a full spectrum of skin tone shades with a natural look finish.

Masks continue as an interesting skincare catagory with some notable new launches. Dr Babor's two new sheet masks target specific concerns. Pollution Protect Mask acts as a protective shield against everyday negative environmental influences. It contains probiotic active ingredients alongside antioxidants that stimulate cell metabolism, neutralise free radicals and activate the skin's own protective system against UV radiation and air pollution. 
Collagen Booster Mask smooths and plumps skin from the inside out. It increases collagen production for a more youthful, plumped complexion whilst also tackling acne. 
Each variant comes with a sheet mask and a capsule of concentrate which is applied to the mask immediately before the mask is placed on your freshly cleansed face - this ensures absolute freshness.

Cornelius can help: Silab's Filmexel
® is a natural biopolymer that forms a protective "second skin" that shields skin from harmful pollution whilst delivering an instant tightening effect. Soya based Pro-Coll-One+® enables the synthesis collagen I within the skin, helping smooth the complexion and reduce crow's feet.

Garnier have launched two new overnight masks - Skin Active Moisture Bomb Night Time Face Tissue Mask for Tried and Sensitive Skin and Deep Sea Water And Hyaluronic Acid Eye Tissue Mask. Both contain deep sea water and are enriched with a soothing active derived from cornflower, making them perfect for sensitive skin. The masks also contain hyaluronic acid which retains up to 1000x times its weight in moisture, hydrating up to 10 skin layers and helping to re plump fine lines and wrinkles. The dermatologically tested masks are worn overnight to relax, repair, rehydrate and soothe skin during sleep.

Cornelius can help: We supply several grades of sodium hyaluronate in different molecular weights to provide differing levels of moisturisation to the skin. Mini HA's ultra low molecular weight allows it to absorb deep into the skin where it provides hydration and plumping for an anti-ageing, repairing effect; whilst the high molecular weight grade is film-forming, moisturising the skin surface and preventing TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss).

Baby Dove Rich Moisture Head-to-Toe Wash and Lotion are made with prebiotic moisture to support the health of baby skin. Baby's are born with a unique microbiome on their skin which protects them from harmful bacteria whilst generating important nutrients, enzymes and lipids for healthy skin function. Most scientists and physicians agree that the microbiome development starts in the first months of life, so it is important to nourish this friendly bacteria that lives on the skin during this time. The wash is said to be as gentle as water, has a tears-free formulation, is hypoallergenic, pH neutral and gentle enough for a newborn's first bath. Rich Moisture Lotion soothes dry skin from the first use and provides all day moisture that leaves baby skin feeling soft and delicately scented.

Cornelius can help: Ecobiotys
® is an active inspired by the regulating capacity of the microbiota of floral nectar, the Nectarobiota®. Isolated from the porcelain flower, it re-balances the skins microbiota by reinforcing its immune and mechanical barriers. It acts on the distribution of bacterial communities and improves the quality of the skin barrier.

In line with the trends for Hippy Luxe and Lunar cycles, which have been so popular this year, is a set of hair treatments available from Brazil. Mazzon Nature Phases of the Moon Capillary Treatment is a treatment mask kit which provides for different hair needs according to each lunar phase: Crescent (hair growth, preventing hair fall/breakage), Full (shine and repair), Waning (thickening, smoothing) and New Moon (revitalise and strengthen). Each mask has a different formula with botanical extracts such as açaí, Ginkgo biloba and Pracaxi oil.

Cornelius can help: To promote hair growth we can supply Anagaline
®, an active derived from sweet white lupine that controls the hair cycle by regulating the hormonal balance, reactivating the microcirculation and stimulating cell metabolism. Hairgenyl® acts on the three regulation mechanisms of hair regrowth - boosting regrowth, thickness and scalp coverage. Amanduline® SG derived from sweet almond coats the hair to increase shine, volume, managability and protect the hair fibre. Ultrahold® Power has shine enhancing properties that combine with invisible hold, heat and colour protection. Gluadin® Kera-P LM, a vegetable derived protein, has the potential to restore damaged hair by 60%. Nutrilan® Keratin LM increases hair strength by 20% and prevents hair breakage by 50%.

OWA Haircare Moondust Collection: Hair Wash is a powder shampoo activated by water from the tap at home. It claims to be the world's first water-free shampoo. Typically, shampoos contain around 80% water and this adds dramatically to a products carbon footprint - when water is needlessly transported it leads to greater packaging consumption, higher transportation weight and extra space taken up in a cargo vessel. Innovations like this will resonate with consumers who seek to be environmentally conscious.

Cornelius can help: We have created a number of water-free powdered wash products - please ask your Cornelius representative for further details. Our powdered surfactant Plantapon
® SUS from BASF works brilliantly in these, providing mild foaming and cleansing in a powdered format.

US brand The SIGN have launched a totally new kind of nail polish remover - Tribe Remove and Chill Nail Enamel Remover is cream based formula that uses propylene carbonate as the solvent. Other ingredients include oils and waxes to moisturise nails and cuticles whilst ensuring the product stays put whilst it gets to work dissolving the nail enamel - this takes 1-3 minutes. The product is gentler than traditional polish removers and has the advantage of being spill-free.

Cornelius can help: We have an extensive portfolio of natural oils from Olvea and waxes from Strahl & Pitsch, including Laurel wax - the vegan alternative to beeswax.

Bronzie Tan Perfecting Powder instantly dries self-tan products. By speeding up the drying process it reduces the likelihood of streaks or transference of colour onto clothes. It can also be used after applying aftersun or on its own to add a sheen to the skin. 
Mintel research on suncare shows that in the UK, half of self-tan users say easy application is important when choosing products, and 21% want fast results.
Cornelius can help: Biotanning
® is a tanning accelerating active rich in sweet orange citroflavonoids. It stimulates the activity of tyrosinase and the synthesis of melanin whilst ensuring the photoprotection of skin cells. 

Lusso Tan have developed the Tan Removal Bath Bomb. The bombs are
 infused with avocado oil, Vitamin E and fatty acids to moisturise the skin, lemon and grapefruit essential oils to gradually dissolve the fake tan and anti-inflammatory Witch Hazel and Jojoba Oil reduce redness and soothe skin. Brand founder Lunsey Bennet says "After about 10 minutes in the bath, you will see your tan just soaking off and all you need to do is give your skin a quick exfoliate as well as it's so important to remove those dead skin cells."
Alternatively, the brand also sells a fake tan eraser which gets rid of fake tan in under eight minutes when used in the shower.

Cornelius can help: Exfolactive
® is a natural, flower derived active which favours cell renewal to stimulate the skins own natural exfoliation process.