Jen’s Cosmetic Trends - Autumn 2019
(Posted on 03/09/19)
A new season is about to begin and there are some fresh new make-up trends around for Autumn/Winter 2019/20. Here are a few to look out for...
Matte red lips were seen at Paco Rabanne and Louis Vuitton, where the tone was deep berry, whilst at Helmut Lang the shade of choice was bright fire engine red. Conversely, glossy lips - mainly in shiny pinks and corals - made a welcome return to the runways at the shows of Fendi, Anteprima, Sportmax and Naeem Khan.
Flushed cheeks, made popular this Spring/Summer season, are here to stay with models at Dolce & Gabbana, Aigner and Chanel all sporting a rosy glow. Pink and purple eyes were a popular choice at many shows but the way in which it was applied was bold and artistic rather than girlish. At Iceberg, graphic neon was used to emphasise the crease line and extended into a catflick at the outer corner; at Valentino, smoky purple was applied to the whole eye area and extended towards the temples; at Michael Kors, the purple was bright and bold with an unstructured finish.
Smoky eyes are back with a neutral toned palette keeping things elegant and sophisticated. Designers favouring this look are Tom Ford (get the look with Tom Ford's Eye Colour Quad in Nude Dip), Ellie Saab and Max Mara. Precious metal eyeshadow tones could be seen at Adeam, Luisa Beccarla and Cividini.
Sparkle still reigned supreme on many a catwalk - models at Dries Van Noten wore large glitter pieces across the whole eyelid up to the brow bone, while at Halpern string silver foil effect was favoured and at Rodarte the look was ultra-girly with matching metallic pink glitter eyelids and lips.
Cornelius can help: Chione Electric Fuchsia from BASF Colors & Effects is the winner of the Beauty Industry Awards Best Colour Cosmetics Ingredient. The intense magenta metallic-like effect pigment based on synthetic mica delivers a clean, bright, bold hue which is vegan friendly. Additionally, it is fully light stable so won't fade in formulations, it does not stain or bleed and there are no application area restrictions. This on-trend pearl pigment was launched at In Cosmetics 2019 with the Pink's Not Dead campaign, reviving the spirit of pink as a bold make-up statement with a strong personality. Check out the link here.
Coming soon are BASF's colour trends for Autumn/Winter 2021/22. Two stories illustrate the colour predictions: ‘Source’ takes inspiration from woodlands, paganism and nature, while ‘Beast’ is all about ‘letting loose and becoming wild again!’ - inspired by the stone age, it features the Dinoskin concept.
G Beauty (German Beauty) is the latest country-origin trend to hit the headlines. The ethos behind the trend is that Germany, and its German-speaking neighbours Austria and Switzerland, have long championed the natural, sustainable, no-nonsense approach to personal care – all attributes which chime with the concerns and wishes of many consumers in 2019.
Sales of cult Swiss-German brand Weleda were up 19% in the US last year and G-beauty brands as a whole saw 13% growth. Some of the biggest G Beauty brands have stood the test of time – Weleda was established in 1921 as a world-leading manufacturer of holistic natural cosmetics; whilst the Dr Hauschka brand was officially launched in 1967 and its founder began to develop natural medicines in 1935. Although many of the big G-beauty brands were founded decades ago, their consistent focus on skin health and efficacious, gimmick-free formulations have ensured their endurance in the fickle beauty arena.
On an altogether more whimsical note, the trend for gemstones has increased through 2019. Consumer interest in holistic approaches to health and beauty continues to grow and with this, crystal healing has emerged as a definite trend. Brands are exploring the spiritual properties of crystals to create beauty products that are part of wellbeing enhancing rituals.
Gua Sha facial massage techniques, a part of traditional Chinese medicine, redirect energy flow and relieve tension in the muscles to boost lymphatic drainage and microcirculation. Traditional practise uses Gua Sha tools usually made from jade and rose quartz. Many indie brands now sell rollers and specially shaped scraping tools made from gemstones via Amazon.
Additionally, crystals and gemstones are increasingly being used as raw materials in cosmetic formulations, often as an exfoliator. Herbivore Botanicals Crushed Amethyst Exfoliating Body Polish uses fine particles of micronised amethyst for a gentle exfoliating effect and revitalising and detoxifying energy - the gemstone is said to impart peaceful vibrations. A variety of gemstones are used in different products in the market place - such as Rose Quartz in Kora Organics Luminizer, Quartz in bliss multi-‘face’-eted clay mask and diamonds in Peter Thomas Roth Un-Wrinkle Fast Serum.
Cornelius can help: Our Gemtone® effect pigment collection fits perfectly with this trend. It features a wide selection of gem inspired tones, such as Sapphire, Amethyst and Amber. These versatile pearls can be used to colour any cosmetic or toiletry product.
Expect further exciting formulation developments in the area of reduced water and waterless products. Many brands are reducing the water content of their products - a trend driven both by sustainability concerns and consumer demand for more concentrated, effective products.
Last year, Mintel’s key beauty trends for 2025 included water as ‘the new luxury’, suggesting brands need to limit dependence on it. L’Oréal has committed to reduce 60% of water consumption per finished product by 2020, compared to the amounts it used in 2005 and is already making efforts to reduce water consumption in its plants. Unilever has launched a water-smart initiative which aims to develop products across its brands that reduces its water footprint. The brand’s new Love Beauty and Planet collection, launched in 2018 in the United States, incorporates “fast-rinse technology” in hair conditioners so less water will be used.
Pinch of Colour is a brand committed to making water free cosmetics. Creator Linda Treska is passionate about making waterless cosmetics and this September she will expand her collection of lipsticks, balms and tints to launch a skin therapy waterless elixir, a natural face oil designed to hydrate and moisturise the skin.
Established brands such as Milk Makeup and Lush champion water-free stick formats for foundations, toners and hydrating oils whilst Korean beauty brands have been experimenting with waterless skincare for some years. Whamisa’s collection of natural, waterless and fermented products includes toners, mists, and lotions; Frudia’s waterless products are made from organic fruit derived extracts and the range covers moisturisers, serums and sheet masks.
An added advantage with waterless formulating is a reduced need for preservatives, an attractive prospect for many who have seen the list of consumer approved preservatives shrink rapidly in recent years. And, from a practical point of view, solid beauty products get around the issue of flying with liquids in hand luggage.
Cornelius can help: We have a number of water-free formulations for cleansing and moisturising - ask your Cornelius rep for more details.
Kate McLeod's collection of moisturising stones are a great example of water-free moisturisers. These stone shaped moisturisation bars melt on contact with dry skin. Four stones are available: Daily, Sleep, Mama and Naked. Each is based on cocoa butter, sweet almond oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil and coconut oil, with each variant containing different essential oils. They are available in a sustainably farmed, re-usable bamboo canister or as a refill.
Drunk Elephant's new Slaii Makeup Melting Butter cleanser is an innovative cleansing balm that becomes a milk on contact with water. It melts all traces of dirt, makeup and sunscreen from skin and is gentle enough to be used around the eye area. It contains antioxidant-rich fruit extracts and oils to help soothe, plus a nourishing African oil blend of marula, baobob, kalahari melon, mongongo and ximenia. It is free from essential oils, PEGs and surfactants. To use the product, it is massaged into dry skin and then warm water is applied to turn this into a milk, finally it can be rinsed away. The cleansing butter is sold with Bamboo Booster, an exfoliant containing charcoal and superfine bamboo, and it is suggested this is added to the cleansing balm once or twice a week for a deeper cleanse.
Cornelius can help: Pationic ISL is a gentle acyl lactylate surfactant which can be incorporated into oily/waxy bases. It aids the formulation in blooming upon contact with water, forming a milk which can be rinsed away. We supply a large portfolio of natural, sustainably sourced oils from Olvea. The oils are refined at their own eco-refinery in France which has been designed to have the lowest possible environmental impact and guarantees that no cross-contamination occurs. The plant has 93 tanks, 10,000 tons of storage and 30,000 tons of annual refining capacity.
Primark has launched its first-ever vegan registered skincare range. PS… Naturals is registered by The Vegan Society and features Overnight Sleep Mask, Balm to Oil Cleanser, Gentle Face Wash, Daily Moisturiser and Cleansing Wipes all of which contain at least 90% ingredients from natural origin. This value for money collection starts at just £1.
Cornelius can help: Vegan formulations do not have to be natural although this is often the consumer perception. To discover more about vegan, natural and other green formulations ask your Cornelius rep about our latest presentation which explore intelligent ethics and will also be the subject of our talk at SCS Formulate this year.
Morning Expert is the latest collection launch from This Works and features a blend of anti-fatigue actives for the skin as well as brain-sharpening essential oils. The range comprises four products. Multi Acid Pads are daily use exfoliator pads that enhance skin resurfacing and help to unclog blocked pores. The pads are infused with naturally occurring alpha-hydroxy acids to remove dead skin cells, Azelaic Acid to help reduce the appearance of blemishes, Vitamin B3 to brighten and Liquorice Root extract to help calm inflammation. Hyaluronic Serum is a plumping serum containing a 2% Hyaluronic Acid complex and Vitamin C to help hydrate and brighten tired looking skin, firming, tightening and smoothing skin appearance. Vitamin C Power Mask is an invigorating exfoliating mask with 10% Vitamin C and Jojoba to smooth, cleanse and revitalise all skin types – improving brightness, softness and skin clarity. Open Eyes provides protection against blue-light damage, an instant antidote to tired eyes upon waking.
It contains Giant Kelp to tighten the look of skin, Persian Silk Tree extract to help reduce the appearance of dark circles and Cocoa Seed peptides to limit the effects of blue light on the skin’s appearance.
Cornelius can help: Oxygeskin®, a nasturtium flower derived active from Silab, reinvigorates skin oxygenation and restores its adaptive capacity to overcome stress caused by blue light, thus improving radiance and smoothness. We supply several grades of sodium hyaluronate in different molecular weights to provide differing levels of moisturisation to the skin. Mini HA's ultra-low molecular weight allows it to absorb deep into the skin where it provides hydration and plumping for an anti-ageing, repairing effect; whilst the high molecular weight grade is film-forming, moisturising the skin surface and preventing TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss).
La Roche-Posay's new Pure Vitamin C10 Serum has been designed for ageing, sensitive skin types. Formulated with 10% pure vitamin C, it protects against environmental damage whilst brightening the complexion. The pH 5.5 is said to be that best tolerated by sensitive skin.
Cornelius can help: Vitamin C is a great addition to skincare but it is an unstable molecule that oxidises upon exposure to air, light, and heat, negating its benefits. Silab's Ridulisse C, derived from soy proteins, has a vitamin C-like action that is anti-ageing and re-densifies the dermal structure. It is a part of a collection of Silab actives that have vitamin like efficacy without the inherent instability issues. Vitanol/Vitanol® Bio (organic) has vitamin A-like efficacy, Vederine has a restructuring effect like vitamin D and Desoxine Bio is an antioxidant in the manner of vitamin E. For a full presentation on these vitamin-like actives, please ask your Cornelius rep.
Dior Capture Youth Age-Delay Advanced Eye Treatment revitalises the eye contour, targeting puffiness, dark circles, fine lines and wrinkles. The light gel-creme contains plant-based actives that firm, smooth and re-densify the eye area. After 28 days use dermatologists calculated that tester's eyebags and puffiness were reduced by 20%, wrinkle appearance by 16% and dark circle appearance by 11%.
Cornelius can help: Filmexel® is a multi-functional film-forming active that forms a flexible, non-occlusive film on the skin, mimicking its properties and functions. It acts as a natural barrier against pollution and irritants - data shows that pollution can be rinsed straight off the off of the face without having had direct contact with the skin. It has an instant tensor effect that visibly smooths the skin, it improves radiance from the first application and, when used in formulating foundations, it prolongs wear time. Dark circles are aggravated by poor blood circulation. Actiflow EL® is an anti-dark circle active that remodels the capillary network by stimulating the formation of blood vessels and by increasing capillary resistance. Eye Regener® provides an under-eye anti-bag effect by stimulating the lymph drainage. Derived from a combination of white lupine and alfalfa, it reduces the surface of under-eye bags whilst improving tone and firmness.
Dr Hauschka has introduced a new unisex shower cream that is packaged in material made from recycled materials including plastic milk bottles. The nourishing wash product contains mild surfactants, sunflower oil, avocado oil and lemon grass essential oil.
Cornelius can help: We have a portfolio of APG surfactants with gentle wash properties. We have tested numerous combinations of sulfate-free surfactants to find out which ones have a synergistic thickening effect, negating the need for an additional thickener - ask your Cornelius rep for a copy of the full report. Our portfolio includes a large selection of Olvea natural oils and butters - please ask for further information.
OTO is a new brand to the UK and offers highly concentrated hemp beauty products that optimise wellbeing. The range contains three roll-on products - Focus, Amplify and Balance - that each contain 20% vegan friendly cannabidiol (CBD) extracted from organically grown hemp. Focus has been created to help users to centre and see things with ultimate clarity, it contains the essential oils Ylang Ylang, Peppermint and Rosemary; Amplify is enhanced with the essential oils Bitter Orange, Bergamot and Sandalwood, it helps the user connect with the present moment; Balance is optimised with Lavender, Chamomile and Cajeput helps to alleviate stress at the end of the day and restore calm.
The popularity of CBD products has grown significantly in recent years. In 2016, the MHRA altered the classification of CBD oil in the UK as a medicinal ingredient, a decision designed to improve the standard of CBD oil in the UK market. Then in 2018 the government legalised medicinal cannabis as a prescription medication, which set in place a proper regulatory pathway for UK citizens to access high-quality cannabis-based products. CBD oil can be made from either hemp or marijuana, but the products sold on the high street are made from hemp - a medical prescription is needed for products derived from marijuana plants. On the high street a wealth of health and beauty oils containing CBD can be found, including bath bombs, muscle balms, foot & leg creams and even lip balms.
Living Proof has created a leave-in scalp treatment that relieves dry, flaking, itchy scalps. It contains a Vitamin B3 based microbiome balancing complex to re-balance the scalp’s natural ecosystem and hyaluronic acid to deliver soothing hydration. The product is fast absorbing and lightweight and should be used 3 times a week for four weeks to see full results.
Cornelius can help: For scalp health we have two Silab actives: Adandrine®, a natural anti-dandruff active derived from pomegranate that combats microbial invasion and restores scalp balance and Capicalm® an anti-irritant that protects sensitive scalps and has a soothing action to reduce inflammation. Additionally, we supply Cation HA a synergistic polymer blend of Sodium Hyaluronate and Polyquaternium-10 that has been shown to repair damaged scalp cells, reduce irritancy and protect the scalp’s barrier function.
Volumizing Primer is new from Virtue. It provides hold whilst protecting hair from heat and environmental damage and contains Alpha Keratin 60ku protein which helps repair hair breakage.
Cornelius can help: Available from BASF are a range of proteins for adding to hair care formulations. The Gluadin® range is vegetable derived, making it ideal for vegan formulations, whilst the Nutrilan collection is derived from collagen and keratin. Many of the grades also have Cosmos approval and come in a variety of molecular weights. Data is available showing how grades have performed during various tests to demonstrate improvement to tensile strength, hair repair, reduction in breakage and combability.
Luviquat® Supreme provides outstanding hold, even under extreme humidity conditions, and acts as a volume booster for thin and fine hair. It enables the development of highly flexible polymer films with a strong resistance to breaking and its cationic charge offers conditioning properties.
Rheocare®HSP 1180 is an anionic polymer used for hair styling. It is neutralised in-situ and performance can be modified with the choice of neutralisation agent. Melting at almost 150°C, it forms a flexible film on the hair’s surface which can subsequently be combed-out and hair restyled with high temperature styling tools. Additionally, it allows for effective styling at lower temperatures whilst protecting against heat damage and frizz.
Multifunctional Filmexel® improves the shine of damaged hair whilst protecting against urban pollution by limiting the adhesion of particulate matter and reducing the oxidation of proteins. It is stable from pH 2-10 making it suitable for inclusion in a wide range of finished formulations.