Jennifer's Cosmetics Trend Report: August 2017
(Posted on 10/08/17)
Hello and welcome to this month's edition of Trends!
In this issue of Trends, the themes are very much dominated by the Unicorn trend (currently at its peak) and influencing not only colour but contributing to glow and metallic themes. We also look at Mintel's "Damsels in De-Stress" theme and an exciting new clear self-tan product.
Makeup artist Michael Anthony has been creating highly stylised, looks with thin mirror-like silver strips placed along the upper lash line for a modern take on eyeliner. More unusually still, he used the mirror finished medium to put a vertical line from under the lower lip down to the décolletage. Silver facial jewellery that forms a vertical line over the mouth, linking to a curved line which sits under the jaw was partnered with metallic red lips at Maison Margiela's July show. This pairs the current craze for shine and sparkle with the trend for temporary body art.
To create a similar look, Smashbox LongWear Liquid Eyeliner is available in two wearable metallic shades - Chrome and 14k Gold. The included wand has a fine tipped sponge for precision application.
To continue the metallic theme, this summer saw the launch of several gold body oils. The new Manuka Doctor collection of luxurious beauty oils are formulated with 24K Gold and endorsed by Kourtney Kardashian. Manuka honey and plant oils to seal in moisture, helping to regain suppleness and elasticity. Skin is said to be visibly brightened and left feeling firm, smooth and supple. Estée Lauder's Bronze Goddess and Elizabeth Arden's Dare to Bare are also new for Summer 17.
Glowing skin is the finish of the moment, and everyone wants radiant filtered looking skin from their daily cosmetics. There are a plethora of glow promising products out there - old classics and some exciting new launches.
Ciate has certainly embraced the trend launching two new box-ticking products this Spring: Dewy Stix is a highlighting balm in twist-up stick packaging that provides a dewy finish without shimmer; Glow-To Illuminating Blush utilises prisma technology to combine silky blush and ultra fine highlighter for a radiant finish. Reviewers seem to appreciate a product that provides real glow over shimmer not least because it's a more wearable daytime option.
Erborian Glow Creme is getting many thumbs up for its soft pinky-purple glow and has been described by allure.com as a fusion of Korean and unicorn beauty. The Erborian brand is the invention of Korean cosmetic scientist Hojung Lee and French beauty guru Katalin Berenyi who create 'of the moment' products that fuse Korean innovation with French chic. Another highlighter capitalising on the Unicorn trend is Cover FX's Custom Enhancer Drops in Halo - a holographic finish which switches from blue to purple to pink - and can be used alone or added to other products.
Cornelius can help: BASF have a variety of pearl pigments to provide a variety of finishes that correspond with metallic and glow trends. Biju Ultra UFC offers a brilliant hit of silver mirror-finish shine when blended in an oily medium and can be mixed with other pigments to create a variety of different coloured metallics.
Over 20 gold pearl pigments are available in many tonal shades, from green-gold to red gold, and a variety of particle sizes to give effects from a subtle sheen to "wow" sparkle. They work equally well alone or blended with other pearls.
Reflecks Multidimensions Shifting Sapphire is a colour-travel pigment which covers the colour spectrum from deep blue, through violet to pink/red. It is part of a collection of seven colour-travel pigments which all exhibit four distinct colours as they flip. A colour-travel presentation is available.
John Frieda's Sheer Blonde Brilliantly Brighter Ultra Illuminating Shampoo uses pearl powder to improve translucency and light reflection to reveal brighter, more reflective blondes. It is packaged in a very on trend holographic tube.
Tan-Luxes' Hydra Mousse is a clear self-tanner, created by Glasgow-based Marc Elrick who wanted to create the most effective streak-free, odour-free product possible.
During his extensive research to create the perfect self-tanner Elrick learnt that the dyes which are in traditional self-tan formulations - so you can see which bits you've done - prevent the DHA from performing its best.
He explains: "While the DHA fundamentally works with the outermost layer of skin, it still has to penetrate to work with your amino acids. DHA was never created to work with dyes. It was designed to be applied directly to the skin in a lotion, serum, or oil form". He then made it his goal to remove the dyes from his self-tanner formulations. "So that was where the whole transparent tanning vision was born from, from a lot of research, not to do something different."
In the absence of dyes, the mousse foam allows you to see which areas have been "tanned". The results are said to be very natural, and the formulation contains skin conditioning Vitamins B5, C and E as well as Raspberry Seed Oil.
Pure Beauty Awards have added the "Best New Face Mask" category, acknowledging the growing mask sector which continues to supply innovative formulations and formats. One such exciting addition to the marketplace is Charlotte Tilbury's Magic Dry Sheet Mask designed for those who want glowing, hydrated HD camera ready skin. Inspired by the technical innovations of Korean beauty, its revolutionary bio-mimetic delivery system allows for ease of use, tapping into the "beauty on the go" trend. The tiny inbuilt vectors in the dry masks combine active ingredients such as vitamins, floral extracts, peptides, oils and butter and deliver them directly into the third layers of the epidermis. 5 Skin Solution IQ tailors itself to the user's skin, feeding it exactly what it needs while the Bio-mimetic system prolongs the release of the ingredients, giving it time to immerse the skin entirely.
Reviewers are very positive about the brightening and smoothing actions of this mask and love that it's so easy to apply without any faff or mess. A user panel of 30 women who used the mask three times over 14 days provided the following feedback -
- 91% agree skin is more hydrated,
- 85% agree skin is brighter,
- 100% agree skin is smoother,
- 70% agree wrinkles are reduced,
- 73% agree facial contours are lifted.
Cornelius can help: We now supply Argile Du Velay clays which are extracted from the foot of the Auvergne volcanoes in France. We are using these pure, 100% natural, COSMOS approved clays to create innovative mask formulations in line with Asian led trends. We can also offer essential oils and vegetable oils from our Cornelius Own Brand range including Green Coffee oil, Passion seed oil and Babassu oil to invigorate skin and help with moisturization.
One of Mintel's current identifiable trends is"Damsels in De-stress" which is linked to today's busy lifestyles which are often combined with city living and/or commuting. The combination of a hectic pace and pollution creates a need to de-stress and clarify mind and body. This overall trend drills down into some smaller sub-patterns, an obvious one being pollution protectors, but an interesting category is "Calming products" which utilise the properties of essential oils and 'modern' aromatherapy.
Espa Natural Beauty InnerCalm Skin Rescue Balm is an intensely nourishing treatment balm to soothe, protect and strengthen dry or sensitive skin. It contains naturally calming actives blackcurrant seed oil, balloon vine extract, manuka and tamanu oils to replenish and soothe stressed skin, while antioxidant sea fennel restores and protects.
Cornelius can help: Silab has several calming skin care actives.
- Mediacalm® soothes skin after single or repeated stresses and restores the normal skin sensitivity
- Calmiskin®, derived from mint, improves the comfort of sensitive and irritated skin, reducing tingling and redness
- Amanduline®, from sweet almond, is particularly recommended for after-sun or after-shave creams, and more generally for any skin care product where anti-irritation properties are required
- Linseed derived Sensiline® prevents cutaneous irritation and discomfort by limiting the inflammatory process thus improving the comfort of sensitive skins.
From our Own Brand range, we can offer a range of oils specifically for use on delicate and dry skin.
Neom Organics has cleverly incorporated modern aromatherapy into its product line. After taking a step back from journalism, its founder, Nicola Elliott, a former editor of Glamour magazine, retrained as an aromatherapist.
As an introduction to the products, and for just a fiver, you can order a Scent Discovery Test which reveals your well-being need: Sleep, De-stress, Boost your Energy or Make you Happy. When inhaled, each blend travels to the hypothalamus, a gland in your brain responsible for releasing the hormones which control how you feel. At the hypothalamus, your body is most attracted to the essential oil blend that it needs revealing whether you need to sleep, de-stress, energise or lift your mood. Then you can buy products from the collection suited to your mood-need, and you get a £5 voucher to redeem against the purchase.
Cornelius can help with blends of essential oils designed specifically for your product needs.
Mists are becoming an increasingly popular and a convenient way to top up moisture levels during the day. As well as being hydrating there are versions for all skin requirements. Elizabeth Arden has rejuvenated their Eight Hour cult classic as a mist - Eight Hour Miracle Hydrating Mist contains a superfruit antioxidant blend of acai, goji, mangosteen, noni and pomegranate fruit extracts as well as apple leaf extract to soothe irritated skin.
Pixi's Glow Mist has the addition of 13 natural oils, including argan, as well as hydrating propolis, aloe vera and fruit extracts. It can be used anytime to revive skin throughout the day and doubles as a split-ends sealer.
Origins GinZing Energy Boosting Lotion-Mistcontains energising coffee, ginseng for radiance and pomegranate to gently remove dulling skin.
Cornelius can help: Olvea natural oils have a variety of skincare benefits including moisturization, reducing TEWL and improved elasticity; Silab's Aquaphyline from wild pansy improves moisture levels; Retistar from BASF is an easy to use blend of vitamins A, C and E.